A K2 / Broad Peak Double!

June 2008 will see Field Touring organize the second significant attempt by a low cost commercial organizer on K2. Our expedition will first climb 8047m Broad Peak to enable the full acclimatization of the team prior to moving on to K2. Limiting the amount of time required to be spent on the steeper and more difficult slopes of the Abruzzi Ridge will give us the greatest safety margin possible. While the team members are at work on Broad, a hand-picked crew of high altitude porters will already be fixing the route on K2 and stocking the camps with food, fuel, tents and oxygen. If all goes according to plan, the climbers will be able to move straight onto K2, taking advantage of any good weather windows.
While this will be our second attempt to climb K2, we have successfully climbed Broad Peak in 3 seasons (2003, 2004 and2006) and reached her fore-summit during the difficult 2005 season. Our expeditions (both to Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II) are in fact the lowest costed options for alpinists heading onto 8k peaks in Pakistan in recent years, and their success has heralded a new era for climbers seeking out cost effective methods for tackling the Karakoram Giants.

FTA on Broad Peak

Building on experience and unrivalled knowledge of the Broad Peak route awe will return again in 2008 as part of our second double header attempt with her adjacent neighbour K2.

Named for her substantial breadth, Broad Peak lies in a spectacular and remote region of the Pakistani Karakoram. While there is no doubt the peak is a demanding undertaking, our experience has shown that gaining her highest upper slopes has been straightforward and attainable. On both our previous trips, members on their first 8000m ascent readily made the summit snow fields or the false summit at just over 8000m, at a rate in excess of 60%. In 2006 we had a number of members on the their first 8000m peak reach the top of Broad Peak and a large number of members reach the ante summit.

The members that went on to the ante-summit typically had prior high altitude experience, though in both 2003, 2004 and 2006 members that did in fact reach the true summit (at 8047m) on their first 8k climb. In essence the results indicate the sound conclusion that in clement weather the prospect for reaching the magical 8k mark on Broad is very high, regardless of the climbers previous 8000m experience.

FTA and K2

This will be our 5th expedition to Broad peak and second to K2 and will be led by a highly experienced team of western guides and local HAPs. We have extensive experience in the Karakoram, running more expeditions and treks here than any other operator in the world, and will be engaging the most sought after and qualified Pakistani HAPs. In 2006 we had a number of members reach to near the 8000m mark on K2 and gained significant knowleadge of the mountain.We look froward to applying all that we learned to our second effort in 2008.

Why K2/Broad Peak with FTA?

No other operator has the recent experience or history that we do on Broad Peak, and our expeditions have proven her to be a good first time venue for aspiring 8000m alpinists, with reasonable summit rates if the weather is clement. This program has been priced to give climbers an affordable opportunity to test their skills and endurance on arguably mountaineering's greatest objective: K2. If you aspire to climb classic Himalayan 8,000ers, in a remote and stunning setting, and with quality back-up and expert leadership, then we invite your application for this once-in-a-lifetime 2008 expedition.

High Altitude Warning
During the ultra high altitude components of our 8000m expeditions (climbing legs above 7000m) the member accepts and fully understands that the level and quality of support and guidance is exponentially reduced the higher the member/team goes. Climbing on the world's highest peaks is a potentially dangerous undertaking, and while we operate with safety as the highest priority, and have enjoyed a fatality free 10 year history, it must be understood by members that there are risks and dangers that neither leaders or members have any control over. Members need to be aware of these risks and accept their presence as being inherent to the pursuit of the world's highest summits.

The West Ridge Route on Broad Peak

Reaching the route
Leaving base camp the first obstacle to reaching the route is an hour-long, wild meander among soaring 20m ice fins and along glacial rivers. After a few passages the trip becomes familiar and allows for taking in the staggering views of K2 which rise up in front of us the entire way.

After following a rocky and awkward spine we reach the bergschrung--the second obstacle to gaining the lower slopes of the west ridge route proper. Early in the season this crevasse is crossable by a snow bridge but becomes more exciting as the snow melts and either an exposed climb through the icefall or short rappel into the bergschrung itself is necessary. As the crevasse will be equipped with a fixed line, it has proven to be an exhilarating and fun part of the climb for all involved.

To Camp 1
The slopes leading up to Camp I range from deep snow in June, to rock and ice by the end of July. The constantly changing nature of these slopes during each day necessitate early starts to take advantage of the firm ground conditions. We will take considerable care to have fixed lines in several exposed sections, in particular the final slope leading into camp.

After nearly 8 hours of effort the platforms of camp I at 5300m are a welcome sight. Perhaps the most exposed and dramatic camp on the route, it is here that we have the first opportunity to enjoy lolling about in our tents high above the glacier below. In the warm midday hours the melting snow above camp runs freely nearby and can be gathered up for a refreshing drink.

Reaching Camp II
The climbing above Camp I requires extreme care as we encounter some of the steepest climbing of the expedition. Nearing camp we climb several rocky steps with fantastic exposure, but with the security of fixed lines.

Above the steps the ground levels out and provides an almost flat camp site, with stunning views down the Baltoro Glacier and across to K2.

To Camp III and IV
We leave Camp 2 following the crest of the ridge and gaining our first close ups of the uppermost slopes of Broad Peak. We ascend the ridge over mixed ground of rock / ice before reaching the couloir which empties out onto a broad snowfield. We ascend the snowfield to regain the crest ridge and follow it to the summit slopes. At the base of this slope, with the summit rocks in clear view, we establish Camp 3 at about 7200m.

The summit may be attempted from camp 3 but in some years it is prudent to place a camp 4 closer to the col to make the summit day shorter and provide a safe haven on the descent.

The Col & Summit Ridge
It is here that the most exciting and demanding climbing will begin. We head for the prominent col between the Central and Main summits on 30deg ground, working our way through ice steps and seracs. The final 50m of fixed rope to the saddle at 7800m is on steep ground of around 50 degrees.

The summit ridge meanders steeply to the south, after about 90m the angle eases but small rock pinnacles still need to be negotiated (fixed ropes are usually in place) before a final short and level walk to the summit. The usual experience of summiteers is that summit day takes anywhere up to 14 hours for the round trip from Camp 3.

The Abruzzi Ridge on K2

We will be climbing the classic Abruzzi Ridge which makes steep and airy line on the southeastern side of the world's second highest peak. First attempted in 1909 by Italy's Duke of Abruzzi the ridge was used in the 1954 successful climb by, fittingly, two Italian climbers, Compagnini and Lacedelli. Sections of the route have become household names among mountaineers and non-mountaineers alike. To have success we will need to pass by House's Chimney, The Black Pyramid and The Bottleneck. As well we will encounter the location of the famous belay by Pete Schoening during the compelling descent of the 1953 US attempt.

The Climb Team

Leaders and Clients: FTA Philosophy

The climb will be managed and led by a professional climber with previous 8000m experience, but it is not a guided expedition. The undertaking is strictly a team effort, with the intention of getting the strongest climbers in the group to the highest camps. The expedition will be conducted in the classic 'siege style' manner, which we believe will offer the safest method of ascent taking into account acclimatization gained on Broad Peak. The expedition will be fitted with all new tents and stoves, and several kilometers of fresh rope will be strung by the team and our high altitude porters along the Abruzzi. Each 2 climbers on K2 will have a HAP assigned to them, and on Broad Peak the ratio is 1 HAP to each 3 or 4 climbers. You may also opt to climb either peak on its own, or perhaps choose to only reach an intermediate camp on Broad Peak prior to attempting K2. We will climb Broad Peak by the West Ridge (standard route) and K2 via the Abruzzi Ridge

This methodology allows those with the capacity to move faster, to do so, while retaining an elemental level of support for slower or less experienced members of the group, and thereby giving them an equitable chance of using resources and gaining the summit.

Who do we seek to join us?

The expedition is primarily seeking members with previous and significant high altitude experience, however climbers with strong technical skills at lower altitudes, and those that may be able to bring other skills or expertise to the trip are urged to apply (for example doctors, cameramen, physio's etc).

The expedition will comprise approximately 12 climbing members, a delegated FTA leader, support staff for the leader (western and local), a host of BC support staff, one HAP per 2 climbers on K2 and one HAP per 3/4 climbers on Broad Peak. Some 200 –- 300 Balti porters will carry several tones of food, fuel and equipment to Concordia for the expedition.

Our Staff & Guides

A qualified guide with significant 8000m experience will be the primary leader of the expedition. We are currently going through the process of making this appointment and will advise the team at the end of September, at which time the team list should also be close to being finalized. In 2006 Alan Arnette, a Colorado based climber well known for his climbing exploits and web-site publishing, took a leading role in the organisation of the climbing party and is assisting FTA Principal Dave Hancock in preparations for the expedition. The experiecne we gained from undertaking this first double will be of great value to our team this coming season. Dave himself plans on joining the permit and filming the trip for possible broadcast later, (his previous work has appeared on NGTV, Lifestyle and Travel Channels). The role of the HAP's will be to move the protection and fixing gear along the route, and some group gear. It is possible to engage a private HAP for your sole use for the duration of the trip for an additional fee of approximately 1800USD.

Our ground staff are the best in Pakistan, handling more expeditions than all other agencies combined. All the above, combined with the fact that we have 10 years of experience and incomparable contacts and knowledge of the rigours of operating in Pakistan, provide for a significant operational and logistical advantage.
more info on our guides

Included / Not Included

Included:
Airport transfers in private vehicles, six nights hotel accommodation in high quality hotels in Islamabad and Skardu with breakfasts included, private air-con coach for transfer to Skardu if flights not available, jeeps for trailhead transfer, porters for 75kgs personal gear to basecamp (going up), 50kgsbasecamp to Skardu (going down), all basecamp sleeping tents, all BC messing and dining facilities, all food at BC, satellite radio phone at BC, spares, back-up and support gear from BC, western staff on the mountain, hand held radio for each member, all four season high altitude tents, all HA stoves and gas, all group technical gear, 1 high altitude porter per 2 climbers on K2, and one HAP per 3-4 climbers on Broad Peak, a base-camp manager, permit fees, National Park entry fees, all fees associated with Liaison Officer, environment bonds, phone and radio permits, staff, LO and porter insurance and equipping, internal flights one way.

Not Included:
Coffee or cold drinks and lunches or dinners in cities, visa costs, airfares to Pakistan, second internal flight ($100 one-way weather permitting) personal laundry, tips for local expedition staff (budget $150)

Joining The Expedition & Further Information

If you are interested in joining our K2/Broad Peak expedition we invite you to complete the form below and we will reply to you as soon as possible.

Please note the expedition is by invitation only, with the application process being open liklely only until the month of December of 2007. Later applications will be considered on a case by case basis.

K2/Broad Peak Information Form

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Broad Peak / K2 Double Header Expedition