Expedition Overview

G2 is certainly one the most attainable of the high peaks, and is a great choice for a first time 8000m attempt. Our 2007 expedition will be modelled on five consecutive and successful seasons climbing 8000m peaks in the Karakorum, and is open to all climbers looking to join a cost effective but well organized and resourced team.

This is a proffessionally organised and led expedition, that is partly guided. In that respect the leader provides the general support and maintains the logistics and safety support for the team, while it is expected that all team members be self sufficient at least on the low to intermediate slopes, and be able to undertake movement between the camps unsupervised. Those members that wish to undertake their summit bid in the company of the leaders will generally be able to do so, while more experienced climbers retain the flexibility to move independently.

To be an eligible member on this expedition you must be very competent, and posses the necessary stamina and experience to be a contributing player in the ascent. Gasherbrum II is part of the greater Gasherbrum group of 5 peaks, 2 of which soar over 8000m, and is the world's 13th highest peak. She is roundly held as one of the most straightforward and accessible of the fourteen, and climbers on her normal route, if sufficiently resourced and prepared, enjoy good summit rates in clement weather.

The climb is fully supported with the highest quality ground, base-camp, and leadership resources, and all group gear (HA and BC tents, tech gear, ropes, stoves etc) are included in the trip fee. This expedition represents an outstanding opportunity to be a part of an extremely well priced, expertly managed, and comprehensively resourced 8000m ascent.

We will have an extension available to Gasherbrum 1 in 2007. For full details please email us at info@fieldtouring.com

High Altitude Warning

During the ultra high altitude components of our 8000m expeditions (climbing legs above 7000m) the member accepts and fully understands that the level and quality of support and guidance is exponentially reduced the higher the member/team goes. Climbing on the world's highest peaks is a potentially dangerous undertaking, and while we operate with safety as the highest priority, and have enjoyed a fatality free 10 year history, it must be understood by members that there are risks and dangers that neither leaders or members have any control over. Members need to be aware of these risks and accept their presence as being inherent to the pursuit of the world's highest summits.

The South West Ridge Route

The climbing legs on Gasherbrum II certainly favour mountaineers attempting their first big peak. Her slopes are not as steep as nearby Broad Peak, or as technical or mixed as her neighbour Gasherbrum 1. There are few objective dangers, and the camp sites are placed in mostly flat sections.

Base Icefall
To get to the base of the route on G2 all teams first traverse the small icefall outside of base camp. As is typical on such climbs, the route through is maintained via a collaborative effort by several expeditions at the hill. The route through is fixed wherever necessary and is clearly marked with wands. The icefall is not particularly unstable or unsafe, though there are a couple of steep sections to be negotiated. C1 is set up very close to the base of the SW ridge, at just under 5900m. The normal traverse time is around 7 hours, but this decreases as we adapt to the new heights and can be cut in half by the time you make your last trip through.

Base-camp - Camp 3
One of the great advantages of climbing the SW ridge is that it’s very hard to get lost or off trail, even in inclement weather. The ridge is very clearly defined and maintains a fairly consistent angle. Occasionally the route swings to the right and on to the large snow face to avoid small ice bands and crevasses. The first sections of the ridge up to C2 are the steepest, and are fixed with rope, as are some sections above C2. camp 2 itself is placed on a large sheltered platform at 6400m.

Climbing times between all 3 camp sites are a very manageable 3-4 hours on average.

Camp 3 is sited just above and to the right of the top of the ridge, again in a relatively well sheltered space, at just under 7000m. Above our tents loom the impressive rock pyramid leading to the summit. Typically climbers can expect to make 2-4 climbs to 2, and 1-2 to C3.

Camp 3 - Summit (8032m) The traverse and summit ridge
There is a height gain of around 500m from Camp 3 to the start of the summit ridge, it is a long traverse that can take up to 4 hours to complete at this altitude, but is more diagonal than steep. The route then swings back to the delightfully exposed but technically straightforward East Ridge. It is at this Point that the expansive view from the other side of the mountain unfolds.

The last obstacle, lying at the end of the ridge, is a short steep section of about a ropes length.

Field Touring guide Ray Brown climbed the section C3 –to summit – and back to C3 in under 9 hours in average snow conditions, but many climbers can take 10-15 hours for a round day trip.

Getting off in a hurry
Its possible to make speedy descents of the ridge in the event of bad weather appearing suddenly, thanks due to its straightforward nature and plethora of fixed ropes. For this reason many climbers ascend her routinely without oxygen or heavy stocking of camp sites. Our expedition will benefit from radioed weather forecasts, and does intend on establishing multiple camp sites. There does however remain the logistical flexibility for experienced climbers to attempt her in a more alpine style manner.

The Climb Team

As a team member you would ideally have at least one summit under your belt at or above 6,000m, and preferably exposure to heights in excess of 6000m. You must be competent in the use of ice/snow belays, and fully conversant with all aspects of technical rope work and mountaineering. All team members must be self sufficient on the slopes, and be able to undertake movement between the camps unsupervised.

It will be crucial that you be superbly fit, committed, and determined at the outset of the expedition and possess the necessary stamina and experience to be a contributing player in the ascent.

Gasherbrum II is proving a good first time venue for aspiring 8000m alpinists, with reasonable summit rates if the weather is clement. This program has been priced to give climbers an affordable opportunity to test their skills and endurance on a big mountain. If you want to climb a classic Himalayan 8,000er, in a remote and stunning setting, and with quality back-up and expert leadership, then we invite your application for this affordable 2005 expedition.

Support Staff

Our expeditions would not be complete without our base camp staff preparing and serving fine meals. Nor would it be complete without the hundreds of Balti porters who carry tons of material to and away from the base of the route.

Our Staff & Guides

A qualified guide with significant 8000m experience will be the primary leader of the expedition. We are currently going through the process of making this appointment and will advise the team at the end of September, at which time the team list should also be close to being finalized. The role of the HAP's will be to move the protection and fixing gear along the route, and some group gear. It is possible to engage a private HAP for your sole use for the duration of the trip for an additional fee of approximately 1800USD.

Our ground staff are the best in Pakistan, handling more expeditions than all other agencies combined. All the above, combined with the fact that we have 10 years of experience and incomparable contacts and knowledge of the rigours of operating in Pakistan, provide for a significant operational and logistical advantage.
more info on our guides

Expedition Philosophy

This expedition will comprise a group of like-minded individuals pooling their efforts and talents to surmount a significant Himalayan objective.

Our climb members join us because they are looking for an organized effort but do not need the meticulous catering offered by many organizations nor the expense which comes with it. We believe in offering lower cost alternatives and sharing more responsibilities with our clients.

That said you will find the services during the trek and at base camp of the highest quality. In fact we stay in the same hotels and use many of the same local companies as significantly higher priced trips. Our equipment too is of a high standard, and we use North Face or Salewa tents, and have at least 1 Iridium satellite phone at BC at all times. The expedition managers (either Stu Remensynder or Anibel Salje or Mike Hale) have extensive climbing CVs, have been to 8000m previously, and are both qualified medical technicians.

Like all of our climbs this expedition is a flexible climb. There is no regimented strategy in place, and members can move at their own pace without the stress of having to keep up with a climbing line. It is required however, that team members be able to maintain a degree of self sufficiency, and understand that the climbing leader is there for the general leadership of the group, and not to devote all his resources to ensuring any single member reaches the top. The expedition manager will make all decisions in consultation with the group, however he retains the right to lead with safety as his foremost consideration, and this will be reinforced if any member appears overtaxed.

The 8000m climb was a great experience. K2 is an awesome looking mountain, and to be camped around it for a few weeks was amazing. Your staff are great guys, always ready to help. To get up into the Karakoram for the first time was an inspiring experience Dave, I think I'll be going back some time.
- Malte Hagge, (AUS) Broad Peak 2003 and Broad Peak 2004

To read dispatches from our 2007 Gasherbrum II Expedition [click here]
To read dispatches from our 2006 K2/Broad Peak 8,047m Expedition [click here]

This will give you an insight of how we operate our 8,000m expeditions.

Included / Not Included

Included:
Airport transfers in private vehicles, six nights hotel accommodation in high quality hotels in Islamabad and Skardu with breakfasts included, private air-con coach for transfer to Skardu if flights not available, sightseeing or trout fishing in Skardu, jeeps for trailhead transfer, porters for 75kgs personal gear to basecamp (going up), 50kgs basecamp to Skardu (going down), all basecamp sleeping tents, all BC messing and dining facilities, all food at BC, satellite radio phone at BC, spares, back-up and support gear from BC, guides on the mountain, hand held radio for each member, all four season high altitude tents, all HA stoves and gas, all group technical gear, 1-3 high altitude porters (number of which at our discretion and based on total number of group members), base-camp manager, permit fees (US$900 value), National Park entry fees, all fees associated with Liaison Officer, environment bonds, phone and radio permits

Not Included:
Coffee or cold drinks and lunches or dinners in cities, visa costs, airfares to Pakistan, second internal flight ($100 one-way weather permitting) personal laundry, tips for local expedition staff (budget $150)

Joining The Expedition & Further Information

If you are interested in joining our Gasherbrum II expedition we invite you to send us an email with your contact details and/or any further questions you may have. Your application will be dealt with promptly and staff from our office will contact you with further information.

Gasherbrum II Information Form

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Gasherbrum II Expedition - The South West Ridge Route