About Russia and Elbrus

Elbrus 5833m/18,481 ft

S tanding at a height of 5633m / 18,481 ft, Elbrus is a giant dormant volcano in a chain of mountains known as The Caucasus. The Caucasus range forms a chain of snowy, high, alpine mountains separating Georgia from Russia to the north. They run for 1000km with many peaks over 4000m. Elbrus is the highest peak in this range and indeed Europe and is one of the Seven Continental Summits.

Mount Elbrus was first climbed by the British party consisting of Moore, Gardiner, Grove and Walker in 1874. The mountain is heavily glaciated and has double peaks. We will climb the highest of Elbrus’ peaks, the West Peak.

Expedition Overview

elbrus Although no advanced mountaineering experience is required for the ascent of Elbrus you will need to be familiar with the basic use of crampons and ice-axes. Elbrus is a strenuous mountain and can be windy and cold. However it is a popular mountain and has a typical success rate of nearly 80%. If you are fit, prepared and acclimatised, you will have a great chance of standing on the summit of the highest peak in Europe.

The trip starts and finished in Moscow and provides a real experience of life behind the “Iron Curtain”.

Our schedule will include sufficient time for acclimatisation treks, and to experience local villages, culture and geography. The schedule also includes spare days should we need to wait for the weather to improve. From Moscow, we will fly 2 hours to Mineralnye Vody. From here good roads lead us to a hotel in the Baksan Valley, near Elbrus. This trip takes 4 hours. Here we will make several walks, prepare our equipment and get ready for the mountain.

During our trip we will have opportunities to practice or improve upon ice axe and crampon techniques to ensure all group members are part of a “climbing team” rather than clients led on a rope.

elbrus For the ascent of Elbrus itself we may make use of the cable car lift system to take us to the Garabashi huts at 3850m or the Diesel Hut at 4157m. An alternative is to walk up to camp at the former site of the Priut 11 hut at 4200m. Walking will help with acclimatisation and is dependent on conditions on the mountain. Whilst on the mountain we will also make acclimatisation walks before attempting the summit proper.

Summit day is long and strenuous and the average time to summit is 8 to 10 hours for the ascent and about 4 hours for the descent. In autumn, winter and spring the slopes above the Pastukhov rocks are covered with ice and can be dangerous. However in the summer, this is less apparent. However, we will still be moving as a group and ensuring that safety is our primary concern.

On arriving at the summit plateau, you are greeted by steep drops and a large and featureless plateau. The sense of achievement is immense as you look out across Europe, before taking summit photographs and descending.

Flying back to Moscow, we partake of the local hospitality to celebrate our success.

The Climbing Team

In recent years we have found an increasing trend for our climbing teams to be composed of independent styled and self sufficient adventurers. The benefit of joining a like-minded group of climbers with a common goal goes beyond the savings found in just sharing expedition and permit costs.

Our expeditions are great learning opportunities, from both your trip managers and the other climbers around you. Typically half of our team will be setting out on their first major expedition attempt, while the other half could have an experience that spans the globe and includes several 8000m peaks.

We do not take applicants from travel agencies, or completely inexperienced people who don't know a crampon from a ruck-sack, you can be assured the people whom you will be climbing with are competent, have prepared themselves for the expedition, and will be there to share with you the excitement of a major life adventure.

In general our team members come from USA, Europe, and Australia.

Our Staff & Guides

All of our major expedition climbs (except for private groups we organize from time to time) are managed by a western Field Touring trip manager. Our lead guides are as experienced and knowledgeable as any in the business today. Just as importantly, they are enormously respected by their teams. Click here to read client testimonials. They also hold advanced wilderness first aid certification, and in many cases are qualified Emergency Medical Technicians.

Their expertise, which embraces dozens of years of climbing on peaks up to and in excess of 8000m, is at your complete disposal. Rather than push or drag you up a hill, they will show you the best way to achieve your goal, and in a fashion that will leave you with a very high degree of independence and self satisfaction. Staff arrangements on all trips are notified to team members around 6 weeks prior to departure. If you'd like to know earlier who is going to be running your climb, we can often advise this up to 3 months prior to departure.
Click here to view our staff & guides biographies.

Joining The Expedition & Further Information

If you are interested in joining our Elbrus expedition we invite you to send us an email with your contact details and/or any further questions you may have. Your application will be dealt with promptly and staff from our office will contact you with further information.

Elbrus Expedition Information Form

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