About Ecuador

Ecuador is one of the world's most enchanting and varied countries. Its rich bio diversity is characterised by a preponderance of species. An ornithologist's delight, it has more bird species crammed into an area the size of France, than in the entire continental USA. It is also home to extraordinary fauna, with more than 3000 species of orchid alone.

One of the worlds hotspots of volcanic activity (Sangay, Tungurahua and Guagua Pinchincha are all active at time of writing), the area provides for a fascinating and diverse environment to climb in, with ascents sometimes leaving forested steppes and onto snow ridges and then glaciated valleys. Climbing four peaks in Ecuador is more akin to undertaking five separate expedition ascents, with each peak posing a different set of objectives to be overcome, and each being quite geologically unique.

Expedition Overview

Imbabura 4610m
Our program commences on the dormant and eroded Imbabura in the countries north, a spectacular ridge climb and acclimatisation ascent one day from our hotel rooms in Quito. After a quick two day non technical ascent we pass throuhg San Pablo del Lago, a regular haunt of some of the world's best selling authors, before heading back to the famous market town of Otavalo for some souvenir and tapestry shopping.

Cayambe 5780m
We will have our first introduction to snow covered volcanoes on Cayambe and give a chance to use our crampons for the first time. As the highest and coldest peak on the equator proper, Cayambe is known for changeable weather. We will discuss prudent practices in climbing such a peak and place wands to ensure our safe descent. We will also encounter our first crevasse and practice rescue techniques before venturing onto the slopes.

Illinizas Norte 5116m
Our next climb is on Illinizas Norte, this time to the south of Quito. The climb is relatively straight forward though the trickiest sections can be iced up requiring crampons and ice axes. We will be able to practice belaying and setting fixed ropes on this route and gain important acclimatisation for the two major ascents ahead. We will spend our nights on Illinizas in the refuge located at the base of the headwall of the twin peak of Norte.

Cotopaxi 5870m
Cotopaxi is often touted as the world's highest active volcano. Climbers ascend her regularly on 3-4 day round trips from Quito in good weather. A stunning and symmetrical cone she rears up from the forested Cotopachi Nacional Parque in folds of ice and snow. Climbing Cotopaxi is heavily weather dependent. Like many of the high peaks on or near the equator she is subject to wild fluctuations in weather, and while this can sometimes provide delays to the schedule, it also gives climbers an opportunity to climb in and experience inclement weather at safer altitudes and in more manageable environments than in the Himalaya. This is one of the reasons that many hundreds of alpinists come to Ecuador each season before heading off on their first Himalayan expeditions. The ascent of Cotopaxi commences just after midnight, again from a refuge, climbing in roped teams. In recent years a huge crevasse has opened on the normal route and most teams now choose to climb the new route to the left of the main ramp.

Gaining her summit, and seeing the enormous bulk of the volcano cast in shadow across lower clouds and the surrounding countryside at sunrise, are rewards enough for the effort in getting to the top of this peak. But the real visual reward lies not on top, but below the top. 2000ft wide, and over 1000ft deep, encircled by ice and often venting steam and sulphur from massive cracks, the abyss of the Cotopaxi crater 20,000ft above sea level, is a sight to behold. The summit and cone of Cotopaxi is regularly described by experienced climbers as the most impressive thing they have ever seen on any of their ascents anywhere in the world.

Chimborazo 6310m
Resting at a camp in the National Park after our ascent for a day, we then head off to our final climb objective; Chimborazo. At 6310m this true mountain has a vertical relief that gives it Himalayan dimensions, and provides a worthy final objective for our climb schedule. Her summit holds the title of being the point on the Earths surface closest to the sun (due to the planets equatorial bulge). We will again utilise high huts on the peak for refuge, and make our summit bids after waiting for the obligatory clear day. Chimborazo lies in an area of the range that is seemingly governed by more volatile weather than areas further north. This is a demanding ascent from the highest hut using roped belays in some sections and will require a concerted effort to reach her summit. "Chimbo" as she is known by those who have climbed her, repudiates climbers of all levels with disconcerting regularity. Its successful ascent is a notable achievement.

As a wind down and with time permitting, we finish our Ecuador program with two nights at the Pacific Ocean beach resort of Atacames, staying in basic but clean huts on the beach.

A technical skills course is built into this program making it an ideal trip for those members wishing to enhance their skills on varied terrain while on a holiday style program that includes significant touring and sightseeing of the country as well. We have extensive experience in Ecuador, being the first Australian based outfitter to pioneer organised trips here in 1994. We have placed members of every trip on every summit attempted since.

The Climbing Team

In recent years we have found an increasing trend for our climbing teams to be composed of independent styled and self sufficient adventurers. The benefit of joining a like-minded group of climbers with a common goal goes beyond the savings found in just sharing expedition and permit costs.

Our expeditions are great learning opportunities, from both your trip managers and the other climbers around you. Typically half of our team will be setting out on their first major expedition attempt, while the other half could have an experience that spans the globe and includes several 8000m peaks.

We do not take applicants from travel agencies, or completely inexperienced people who don't know a crampon from a ruck-sack, you can be assured the people whom you will be climbing with are competent, have prepared themselves for the expedition, and will be there to share with you the excitement of a major life adventure.

In general our team members come from USA, Europe, and Australia.

Our Staff & Guides

All of our major expedition climbs (except for private groups we organize from time to time) are managed by a western Field Touring trip manager. Our lead guides are as experienced and knowledgeable as any in the business today. Just as importantly, they are enormously respected by their teams. Click here to read client testimonials. They also hold advanced wilderness first aid certification, and in many cases are qualified Emergency Medical Technicians.

Their expertise, which embraces dozens of years of climbing on peaks up to and in excess of 8000m, is at your complete disposal. Rather than push or drag you up a hill, they will show you the best way to achieve your goal, and in a fashion that will leave you with a very high degree of independence and self satisfaction. Staff arrangements on all trips are notified to team members around 6 weeks prior to departure. If you'd like to know earlier who is going to be running your climb, we can often advise this up to 3 months prior to departure.
Click here to view our staff & guides biographies.

Joining The Expedition & Further Information

If you are interested in joining our Ecuador Volcanoes expedition we invite you to send us an email with your contact details and/or any further questions you may have. Your application will be dealt with promptly and staff from our office will contact you with further information.

Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition Information Form

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