Expedition Overview

We have climbed this peak in 4 consecutive seasons (2003, 2004, 2005 and 2006) with members reaching both the true summit at 8047m, and the ante (false) summit at just over 8000m in 2003, 2004 and 2006. In 2005 our team battled heavy snow conditions to reach the false summit during a summer which saw only 2 confirmed summits by a small 2-man Kazakistan team (see www.k2climb.net for their dramatic story)

Our expeditions (both to Broad Peak and G2) are in fact the lowest costed options for alpinists heading onto 8k peaks in Pakistan, and their success has heralded a new era for climbers seeking out cost effective methods for tackling the Karakoram Giants.

Building on this experience and unrivalled knowledge of the route, we look forward to fielding a strong team that includes prior 8000m summiters once again, for a fifth expedition via her west rib route.

Named for her substantial breadth, Broad Peak lies in a spectacular and remote region of the Pakistani Karakoram directly opposite K2. While there is no doubt the peak is a demanding undertaking, our experience has shown that gaining her highest upper slopes has been straightforward and attainable. On both our previous trips, members on their first 8000m ascent readily made the summit snow fields or the false summit at just over 8000m, at a rate in excess of 60%.

The members that went on to the ante-summit typically had prior high altitude experience, though in both 2003, 2004 and 2005 members did in fact reach the true summit (at 8047m) who were on their first 8k climb. In essence the results indicate the sound conclusion that in clement weather the prospect for reaching the magical 8k mark on Broad is very high, regardless of the climbers previous 8000m experience.

This is a proffessionally organised and led expedition, that is partly guided. In that respect the leader provides the general support and maintains the logistics and safety support for the team, however it is required that all team members be self sufficient at least on the low to intermediate slopes, and be able to undertake movement between the camps unsupervised. Those members that wish to undertake their summit bid in the company of the leaders will generally be able to do so, while more experienced climbers retain the flexibility to move independently.

This methodology allows those with the capacity to move faster, to do so, while retaining an elemental level of support for slower or less experienced members of the group, and thereby giving them an equitable chance of using resources and gaining the summit.

To be an eligible member on this expedition you must be competent, self confident, and posses the necessary stamina and experience to be a contributing player in the ascent.

Ideally you would have at least one summit under your belt at or above 6,000m, and preferably exposure to heights in excess of 6000m. You must be competent in the use of ice/snow belays, and fully conversant with all aspects of technical rope work and mountaineering. You will need to be superbly fit, committed, and determined.

No other operator has the recent experience or history that we do on Broad Peak, and our expeditions have proven her to be a good first time venue for aspiring 8000m alpinists, with reasonable summit rates if the weather is clement. This program has been priced to give climbers an affordable opportunity to test their skills and endurance on a big mountain. If you aspire to climb a classic Himalayan 8,000er, in a remote and stunning setting, and with quality back-up and expert leadership, then we invite your application for this affordable 8000m expedition.

High Altitude Warning
During the ultra high altitude components of our 8000m expeditions (climbing legs above 7000m) the member accepts and fully understands that the level and quality of support and guidance is exponentially reduced the higher the member/team goes. Climbing on the world's highest peaks is a potentially dangerous undertaking, and while we operate with safety as the highest priority, and have enjoyed a fatality free 10 year history, it must be understood by members that there are risks and dangers that neither leaders or members have any control over. Members need to be aware of these risks and accept their presence as being inherent to the pursuit of the world's highest summits.

The West Ridge Route

Reaching the route
Leaving base camp the first obstacle to reaching the route is an hour-long, wild meander among soaring 20m ice fins and along glacial rivers. After a few passages the trip becomes familiar and allows for taking in the staggering views of K2 which rise up in front of us the entire way.

After following a rocky and awkward spine we reach the bergschrung--the second obstacle to gaining the lower slopes of the west ridge route proper. Early in the season this crevasse is crossable by a snow bridge but becomes more exciting as the snow melts and either an exposed climb through the icefall or short rappel into the bergshrung itself is necessary. As the crevasse will be equipped with a fixed line, it has proven to be an exhilarating and fun part of the climb for all involved.

To Camp 1
The slopes leading up to Camp I range from deep snow in June, to rock and ice by the end of July. The constantly changing nature of these slopes during each day necessitate early starts to take advantage of the firm ground conditions. We will take considerable care to have fixed lines in several exposed sections, in particular the final slope leading into camp.

After nearly 8 hours of effort the platforms of camp I at 5300m are a welcome sight. Perhaps the most exposed and dramatic camp on the route, it is here that we have the first opportunity to enjoy lolling about in our tents high above the glacier below. In the warm midday hours the melting snow above camp runs freely nearby and can be gathered up for a refreshing drink.

Reaching Camp II
The climbing above Camp I requires extreme care as we encounter some of the steepest climbing of the expedition. Nearing camp we climb several rocky steps with fantastic exposure, but with the security of fixed lines.

Above the steps the ground levels out and provides an almost flat camp site, with stunning views down the Baltoro Glacier and across to K2.

To Camp III and IV
We leave Camp 2 following the crest of the ridge and gaining our first close ups of the uppermost slopes of Broad Peak. We ascend the ridge over mixed ground of rock / ice before reaching the couloir which empties out onto a broad snowfield. We ascend the snowfield to regain the crest ridge and follow it to the summit slopes. At the base of this slope, with the summit rocks in clear view, we establish Camp 3 at about 7200m.

The summit may be attempted from camp 3 but in some years it is prudent to place a camp 4 closer to the col to make the summit day shorter and provide a safe haven on the descent.

The Col & Summit Ridge
It is here that the most exciting and demanding climbing will begin. We head for the prominent col between the Central and Main summits on 30deg ground, working our way through ice steps and seracs. The final 50m of fixed rope to the saddle at 7800m is on steep ground of around 50 degrees.

The summit ridge meanders steeply to the south, after about 90m the angle eases but small rock pinnacles still need to be negotiated (fixed ropes are usually in place) before a final short and level walk to the summit. The usual experience of summiteers is that summit day takes anywhere up to 14 hours for the round trip from Camp 3.

The Climb Team

The 2006 team consisted of climbers from UK, USA, Ireland,, South Africa, The Netherlands and Australia. Well over half of the team had several major 8000m summits to their credit, including Everest , Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma, the remainder of the team were setting out on their first 8k ascent.

Regardless of your previous HA experience, it is crucial that you be superbly fit, committed, and determined at the outset of the expedition and possess the necessary stamina and experience to be a contributing player in the ascent.

The expedition will comprise a maximum of 15 climbing members, 2 leaders, and several hand-picked high altitude porters.

Support Staff

Our expeditions would not be complete without our base camp staff preparing and serving fine meals. Nor would it be complete without the hundreds of Balti porters who carry tons of material to and away from the base of the route.

Our Staff & Guides

This trip will be led by an experienced 8000m guide. as we have done in every year. Similarily the number of HAP's engaged will be according to the group size. The role of the HAP's will be to move the protection and fixing gear along the route, and some group gear. It is possible to engage a private HAP for your sole use, at a cost of approx US$1800 for the duration of the trip.

Their expertise, which embraces dozens of years of climbing on peaks up to and in excess of 8000m, is at your complete disposal. Rather than push or drag you up a hill, they will show you the best way to achieve your goal, and in a fashion that will leave you with a very high degree of independence and self satisfaction.
more info on our guides

Expedition Philosophy

This expedition will comprise a group of like-minded individuals pooling their efforts and talents to surmount a significant Himalayan objective.

Our climb members join us because they are looking for an organized effort but do not need the meticulous catering offered by many organizations nor the expense which comes with it. We believe in offering lower cost alternatives and sharing more responsibilities with our clients.

That said you will find the services during the trek and at base camp of the highest quality. In fact we stay in the same hotels and use many of the same local companies as significantly higher priced trips. Our equipment too is of a high standard, and we use North Face Eureka or Salewa tents, and have at least 1 Iridium or thuraya satellite phone at BC at all times. The expedition managers have extensive climbing CVs, have been to 8000m previously, and are often qualified emergency medical technicians.

Like all of our climbs this expedition is a flexible climb. There is no regimented strategy in place, and members can move at their own pace without the stress of having to keep up with a climbing line. It is required however, that team members be able to maintain a degree of self sufficiency, and understand that the climbing leader is there for the general leadership of the group, and not to devote all his resources to ensuring any single member reaches the top. The expedition manager will make all decisions in consultation with the group, however he retains the right to lead with safety as his foremost consideration, and this will be reinforced if any member appears overtaxed.

The 8000m climb was a great experience. K2 is an awesome looking mountain, and to be camped around it for a few weeks was amazing. Your staff are great guys, always ready to help. To get up into the Karakoram for the first time was an inspiring experience Dave, I think I'll be going back some time.
- Malte Hagge, (AUS) Broad Peak 2003 and Broad Peak 2004

To read dispatches from our 2006 Broad Peak 8,047m Expedition [click here]

This will give you an insight of how we operate our 8,000m expeditions.

Included / Not Included

Included:
Airport transfers in private vehicles, six nights hotel accommodation in high quality hotels in Islamabad and Skardu with breakfasts included, private air-con coach for transfer to Skardu if flights not available, sightseeing or trout fishing in Skardu, jeeps for trailhead transfer, porters for 75kgs personal gear to basecamp (going up), 50kgs basecamp to Skardu (going down), all basecamp sleeping tents, all BC messing and dining facilities, all food at BC, satellite radio phone at BC, spares, back-up and support gear from BC, guides on the mountain, hand held radio for each member, all four season high altitude tents, all HA stoves and gas, all group technical gear, 1-3 high altitude porters (number of which at our discretion and based on total number of group members), base-camp manager, permit fees (US$900 value), National Park entry fees, all fees associated with Liaison Officer, environment bonds, phone and radio permits

Not Included:
Coffee or cold drinks and lunches or dinners in cities, visa costs, airfares to Pakistan, air fare to Skardu ($100 one-way weather permitting) personal laundry, tips for local expedition staff

Joining The Expedition & Further Information

If you are interested in joining our Broad Peak expedition we invite you to send us an email with your contact details and/or any further questions you may have. Your application will be dealt with promptly and staff from our office will contact you with further information.

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Broad Peak Expeditions