Gasherbrum II/Gasherbrum I 2007 Expedition Dispatches

LATEST NEWS

July 31 Parting thoughts

July 28 Islamabad Bound

July 26 Out to Skardu Today!

July 20 Back in BC and latest dispatch from Dave Elmore

July 19 General Update

July 18 Team safe and sound

July 16 Ryan, Dave, Blair and Grant have left BC and are on the final summit push of the expedition!

July 14 Back in bc and readying for the next try starting on the 15th

July 12 Summit attempts and more!

July 9 - Team back to BC, Next wave up tomorrow

July 6 - Dave and Vladimir at C2 and the rest of the team on the move!

July 5 - Further details...

July 4 - Plans for summit push

July 1 - Details of the trip to C2

June 29 - Back from C2 in difficult conditions

June 26 - Vlad back in action

June 23 - Sun tanning at BC

June 22 - Route to C1 established a rest day ahead!

June 20 - Vladimir's bag has been recovered and he is heading back towards concordia enroute to BC! The entire team hopes to take a load to C1 tomorrow and we will have full details then.

June 19 - Pirates of the Gasherbrum venture into the icefall!

June 16 - Trekkers Askole bound and climbers snowbound

June 15 - K2 BC Visit on a snowy day!

June 13 - Team on the move - trekkers to Concordia and climbers to Shagring

June 11 - Team in Goro 2 with a rest day planned for the 12th

June 8 - Team in Paiju with a rest day ahead!

June 7 - 4x4 rides along the Braldu and a full day of trekking behind .... views of 7000m peaks ahead tomorrow!

June 5 - Busy day in Skardu, a missing bag from Emirates and Blair on the way

June 4 - In skardu and a welcome rest day ahead!

May 31 - From Ryan in Islamabad

May 30 - Arrival of our first members in Islamabad!

quick link: may 30 31 june 1 4 5 7 8 11 13 15 16 19 22 23 26 29 July 1 4 5 6 9 12 14 16 18 19 20 26 28 31

BACKGROUND

About FTA and GII

Following up our successful expedition from 2004 to GII we spent two years focusing on Broad Peak and K2 and now turn our attention back to GII with any eye to a double with GI if all goes well!

This trip will be led by Ryan Waters who will be supported by our outstanding group of high altitude porters who now include GII, Broad Peak and K2 8000m experience not to mention Spantik and other lower peaks. We have worked hard with the porters to ensure that they are able to make the kinds of contributions to our efforts in pakistan that is customary in nepal.

Ryan along with JJ Justman were responsible for a superb trip last summer in which we placed many members on the top of Broad Peak and to 8000m on K2. We have immense regard for both guides and think they are as good as any in the business.

We also have a large support trekking group who will make their way to both GII and K2 base camps and then exit by the famed Gondogoro La pass which leads to the Hushe Valley.

We welcome you to follow our 2007 team as they make their way though the Karakoram valleys and glaciers to reach base camp and then tackle the pair of 8000m peaks.

 

CLIMBING TEAM | TREKKING TEAM | SPONSORS | DISPATCHES | BROAD PEAK 2007 INFORMATION PAGE

SPONSORS

We would to thank the following companies for their generous support for our Gasherbrum 2007expedition.

THE CLIMBING TEAM

Ryan Waters (USA), Leader

Ryan is a professional mountain guide and outdoor instructor. He has guided and climbed in North America, Mexico, Ecuador, Argentina, Chile, Nepal, Pakistan and Tibet. He is a veteran of seven Himalayan expeditions including 2 expeditions to Everest, 2 expeditions to Cho Oyu, K2, Broad Peak, and Pumo Ri. He has lead over 20 expeditions in the Andes of South America focusing on Aconcagua and northern Patagonia regions.

He is a Co-Owner and lead guide for Mountain Professionals, a senior guide for RMI, and a senior instructor for Outward Bound Patagonia. Ryan has a degree in Geology and is an avid adventure photographer. He lives in Argentina and the U.S. Ryan is sponsored by Powerbar and Misty Mountain Threadworks.
In 2006 Ryan guided on Broad Peak and K2 for FTA and is returning to the Karakoram to lead the G2/G1 double-header.

For more about Ryan and our other guides see our staff page.

Dave Elmore (USA) , Assistant Guide

Dave joins our team on GII for a second trip with FTA following a great trip to Ama Dablam last autumn. He is among the strongest climbers and best teachers we have in our organization and will be a strong addition to the leadership. At the conclusion of this trip he will be headed over to lead our Spantik 2007 expedition.
Dave has climbed in the U.S., Asia, Europe, Nepal, Argentina, Chile, has completed difficult big-wall and ice ascents and paddled all over the U.S. Dave is a lead guide for Mountain Professionals on Orizaba, Aconcagua, Tronador, Kilimanjaro, Cho Oyu, and many more. Dave is a member of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and has completed his Alpine Guides Course with the AMGA. Dave is certified with his Wilderness Medical Training certificate, and has a B.S. in Environmental Science and Psychology.

 

Blair Falahey (Australia), Assistant Guide

Expeditions: Cho Oyu 2006, Everest 2006

see blair's climbs at http://www.blair8000.com/>

Warwick Barnes, (Australia)

Age 46 yrs
Sydney, Australia
Married with 2 children, 18 and 15 yrs
Emergency Medicine Physician

Highest summit: Shishapangma Central Summit 2005

Other interests ;
Photography, Hang gliding, Canyoning, Caving, Hiking and Motorcycle touring

 

Vladimir Grechka (USA)

Vladimir has recently summited Ama Dablam with FTA in November 2006 and brings with him a wealth of altitude and winter climbing as well as an understanding of FTA expedition style. He is strong, resourceful, a great climbing partner and just the kind of person you want on your trip if the weather takes a turn for the worse!

 

 

 

 

 

Mary Adams (Australia)

I am an overworked high school teacher, teaching chemistry, physics, mathematics and outdoor education to grades 11 and 12, though not all at once. I've been on expeditions to climb Cho Oyu and Denali, never quite making it to the top, so hope to reverse that trend on this trip. I fill in my spare time bushwalking, canyoning and caving, as well as driving my son and his musical instruments to various venues.

 

 

Grant Else (CAN)Guide-in-training

 

 

 

 

 

TREKKING TEAM

Karen Soo Kee (Australia)

Enjoys trekking, climbing, motorcycle riding, wilderness walking, canyoning, caving and anything that provides fun mixed with adventure. Highlights include trekking in the Himalayas, walking around Ireland and climbing in Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains, climbing Mt Zugspritz & walking across the German Alps into Austria on my own.

Leaving hubby, 2 daughters and 3 grandsons at home alone.

Vickie Barnes (Australia)

46yrs, Married (to Warwick)
Sydney, Australia
Registered Nurse, Certified Midwife
Interests include family, music, dance, motor cycle touring, snow skiing
Travelled extensively in the Pacific region, USA, Canada, UK and Nepal
Highest altitude attained 5050 metres ( The Pyramid near Lobuche, Nepal).

 

Alex Barnes (Australia)

15yrs (son of Warwick & Vickie)
Sydney, Australia
Year 10, St Columbas High School, Springwood, NSW.
Interests include music, playing guitar, computer games, archery, bushwalking, caving, rockclimbing, trail bike riding.
Currently training for light aircraft private pilots licence
Highest altitude 5160 metres (Gorak Shep near Everest BC Nepal when aged 12yrs )

 

Graeme and Penny Dawes (Australia)

Despite our travels through Nepal, India and Tibet we are still married !. We take advantage of the outdoors living in the Blue Mountains, west of Sydney. Graeme works in outdoor education and will miss beer and serious coffee in Pakistan. Penny is chief staple-puller at a local general practice and is going to Pakistan because she thinks it's the one place work won't find her. Our mountaineering careers have been tragically cut short by the fact that we hate being cold and walking uphill.

 

Ian Gordon (USA)

Schenectady, New York – 17 years old (Janet Krahn’s son). 11th grade in high school. I enjoy backpacking and other outdoor activities in the mountains (small) near our house. I also like to run track, bike, and play the trombone in my school’s jazz band.

 

 

Janet Krahn (USA)

Schenectady, New York – 46 years old. This is a first trek. I also enjoy rowing, bicycling, hiking, and canoe camping. When not spending free time outdoors I’m an instructor at a pharmacy college. Brought Ian along, but left behind hubby John and dog Candy to visit the north woods of Wisconsin with family.

 

 

 

Dave Withington (UK)

 

 

 

 

 

 

George Tucker (USA)

Redondo Beach, California
If I'm away from mountains and desert too long, my wife complains about
my "Zugspitze expression." Turned back circa 5400 meters in Ecuador and
gave up on fast ascents of high peaks. At 62, no time for the beach
until I reach the final continent -- Australia.

 

I fan Kuo (Canada)

Vancouver, British Columbia -- 26-year-old, addicted to traveling. Fell in love with the Nepali Himalayas in 2003 and has been mountain-seeking ever since, both abroad and locally. Likes hiking, kayaking, taking picutures and good coffee. Recently quit her job as a hospital pharmacist. Started the journey in the end of April with Disneyland and just spent a month in China and Taiwan. Looking forward to finish off with a trek in the Karakoram before heading back to school in August.

Martin Hartley (Australia)

Martin Hartley, age 15, has been walking up hills since age two and a half, and now easily beats his parents to the top. He likes hiking, caving, rockclimbing, playing rugby and other sports, and occasionally fits in time to play the cello and trombone.

 

Richard Hartley (Australia))

 

 

 

Diane Cunningham (UK)
Jason Montanana (UK)
Latifa Mayou(UK)

DISPATCHES

quick link: may 30 31 june 1 4 5 7 8 11 13 15 16 19 22 23 26 29 July 1 4 5 6 9 12 14 16 18 19 20 26 28 31

 

July 31, 2007 - Parting thoughts from Islamabad.

From Stu in the US office,

Ryan and Dave have a few final thoughts below but stay tuned for an ungrade to the dispatches as we will add in a trip summary, pictures and a gallery link when the members are back home.

From Ryan and Dave in Islamabad

Thanks for all the support from family, friends, and sponsors.

Our Expedition has come to a close this morning with the debrief meeting at the ministry of tourism's Pakistan Alpine Club. It has been an interesting season to say the least here in pakistan. Our biggest obstacle turned out to be the weather, which dumped huge amounts of snow on the mountain making it unsafe to climb. It is ironic that last year a record number of summits occured on the G2 southeast ridge route and this year there were zero. It goes to show you what a dynamic undertaking these high mountaineering expeditions can be. Don't ever let anyone mention the word "easy" when talking about the high peaks. That is what makes it so interesting for those of us who come to these amazing places and work hard to fullfill a goal, through physical, emotional, and environmental challenges that are ever changing.

We hope the best for our friends still giving it one last shot on G2 and all the other climbers in the Karakoram this season. It is an intriguing time to be a westerner in Islamabad. I have had interesting and insightful conversations with many Pakistanis about current world politics. I would stress that the common person here is hoping to encourage the continued tourism in the country and have continued to be welcoming to us in every way.

We are off to put a cap on the expedition at the American Steakhouse with Pizza and cold Murree's Beer brewed right here in nearbye Rawalpindi! So long for now, until the next adventure............

Ryan Waters - Expedition Leader
Dave Elmore - Guide

July 28, 2007 - Skardu Finally!

From Stu in the US office,

Ryan and the team have been busy for two days cleaning and cataloguing gear and resting and eating. After a long and difficult season on the mountain they are glad to be out of the hills and looking forward to R&R in the month ahead before the next adventures for them all. They report all is quiet in Skardu and are hoping for the same in Islamabad. They'll be hoping for good weather on the 29th to be able to fly and otherwise will be beginning the 23 hour KKH bus ride!

July 26, 2007 - Back in Skardu tonight

From Stu in the US office,

I received a short note last night from Ryan that all is well and the team was camped just a 2 hour walk from Askole. They expect to be out to Skardu tonight and we'll look forward to a detailed dispatch in the next 24 hours. They had orginally intended 5 days for the walkout and will complete in just 4 so they are clearly motivated to get to a hot shower and cold drink!

 

July 20, 2007 - Back in BC, Update from Dave Elmore

From Dave at BC, 11:36am EST

Hello All,

Sorry for the delay in communications. On July 18th at approxiamately 11:45am an avalanche above camp 2 released and swept four members of the German AMICAL group down G2. The result was one deceased member, one missing member (presumed dead), one critically injured member and one severly injured guide. Due to a great multi-national effort the survivors were lowered to 5900m, where two Pakistani Army helicopters where able to land and pickup the injured members on the morning of July 20th.

The atmoshpere here at basecamp is one of great sorrow and relief. Having acted as incident commander at basecamp, I know the efforts put forth to execute this high altitude, technically difficult rescue. Those members at camp 2 who shared the responsibilities of keeping the critically injured member alive for 48 hours straight and working cooperatively to lower all patients from 6400m to 5900m, are greatly appreciated. Special thanks go to Ryan Waters, Blair Falahey, Phil Crampton, Javier Martinez, Javier Zabalo, Bruno and his Swiss expedition, Japanese members Katayama Ukyo, Usami EIIchi and their sherpas Phura Cheri, Tul Bahadur. FTA porters Taki and Akbar and all AMICAL staff. Also, thanks to Ali Sarwar and Major Kaini.

Our thoughts go out to all the friends and family of all AMICAL members and guide.

Our FTA GII expedition is coming to a close. With all members safely back in BC, we will be departing on July 23rd.

See you all shortly.
Dave Elmore
July 20th

From Stu in the US office, 7:01EST

Ryan called in a few minutes ago to share the news that helicopters were able to arrive today and take the injured climbers to Skardu. The plan is for Ryan, Blair, Grant and Dave to all leaver together on the 23rd from BC and arrive in Askole on the 27th. Taqui and Akbar may have additional work on the mountain with another team and if so we wish them safe passage throughout.

After resting for a bit they will take the time to write dispatch and we will get that up as soon as they do.

July 19, 2007 - General Update

From Stu in the US office

Dave has reported in from BC and given us a general update on the teams movement and actions over the last 24 hours and the plans for the days ahead. After unsuccessfully attempting to extract an injured climber from C2 the Pakistani military helicopters were unavailable today and so the rescue group in C2 has brought one injured climber down to C1 and will be bringing him down to BC for a helicopter ride tomorrow. This means that by tomorrow all of our members should be down to BC.Dave has been coordinating the rescue from BC and Ryan from C2 and we are glad that two such capable leaders have been able to help manage the situation along with lots and lots of help from other teams. Dave has noted that in particular the Swiss team has been helping at C2 and we thank them for their selfless efforts. We understand that Phil Crampton has also been highly involved and it is a good thing that Dave, Ryan and Phil are already friends as it certainly facilitates the effectiveness of their efforts.

The sum toll of the many weeks of challenging conditions at BC and the recent events have made it clear for the remaining 4 members of our team that the time has come to go home and they will pack up camp as soon as they can following the end of the rescue and evacuation.

I also received a note from Mary and Warwick who have made it already back to Islamabad and will be on the plane to Bankok tomorrow. They have learned of the avalanche and expressed great concern and sympathy for the Amical team as we all do.

There has been a great deal of coverage of the events on www.k2climb.net and for a summary of the many teams involved and events it is a good place to go.

July 18, 2007 - Team safe and sound

From Stu in the US office

Ryan has called to report that all of the FTA team is safe and sound. There has apparently been an avalanche on the mountain near C2 and Ryan, Blair Taqui and Akbar are taking part in the ongoing rescue efforts. Dave and Grant are at C1 and headed down today or tomorrow. Their intention is to assist as much as they can for as long as needed and then descend to the BC. Dave and Grant are at C1 and are prepared to assist as well as needed. Ryan says that conditions on the mountain are such that this will conclude any efforts by our team and they will bring the expeditions to a close after descending in the next few days. Our thoughts are with the climbers from other teams and hope for more news in the next 24-48 hours.

 

July 16, 2007 - Four for the top....

From Stu in the US office

I had an early morning call from Ryan confirming that he, Dave, Blair and Grant are heading up to C1 today and hope to push to C2 tomorrow, C3 on Wednesday and will try for the summit on Thursday 19 July if all goes according to plan.

Ryan could see 10 headlamps moving out of camp and up the slopes and said there is another team or two who have been waiting out some bad weather at C1. It is hoped that much like as occurred last week on Broad Peak that a large group may have a chance to push through the deep snow covering the last 400-600mm of the route.

The weather window predicted for this week still looks good and we'll hope holds long enough for the teams to work together to reach the top. No doubt G2 has seen the Karakoram at its most demanding with snow and wind alternating to keep teams at bay. These long weeks take a toll even on the hardiest of mountaineers and this last push will be a real test of endurance and willpower!

More news as we have it!

 

July 14, 2007 - Back in BC and heading up for the next weather window

From Ryan in BC

Well, it is a quiet day at basecamp, after the first real effort to try for the summit.

One of our members Vladimir made a solid attempt with a mixed group of climbers. They reached 7,700m before turning around in bad weather. Blair and Taqui as well as some other teams tried for the top but ran into similar difficult route and weather conditions.

So once more we wait here, watching the snow fall, and planning what is likely our last try for most of our group for the summit of G2. We are hoping this upcoming weather window next week is enough and that the snow is not too deep up high. We hope to leave for camp 1 on sunday or monday morning in the tail end of the bad weather, allowing us to climb to the high camps in the good weather and hopefully to the summit late next week.

Cheers from Ryan and all of the FTA team.

July 12, 2007 - Expedition High Point 7700m Reached!

From Stu in the USA office

A few brief phone calls from the BC team gave us the news that Vlad made a summit bid yesterday, along with a few climbers from another team, and reached 7700m before returning to C3. With the route pushed very high Blair, Taqui and Akbar will make for the summit tonight as well and it is uncertain if Vlad will join them. Dave, Ryan and Grant have held off a few days to avoid the poor weather predicted for later friday and through saturday and will be launching their bid for the window predicted for monday and beyond. Mary and Warwick have ended their attempts and are to begin the trek out to Skardu today as they have run out of time for summit attempts and must head home to resume their real lives. We wish them safe journey!

More news ahead with hopefully a summit to report!

July 9, 2007 - Summit bid ends below C3, next effort starts tomorrow.

All around the Karakoram the heavy snow has been thwarting efforts to make high camps and set the stage for summit bids and our team was no exception. Despite hard work and success in fixing 3/4 of the way to C3 the team has retreated to BC with heavy snow making the conditions difficult and dangerous. Ryan spoke over the phone to me of short ice pitches being hard enough that some teams are unable to get all of their members to C2. He also mentioned that the number of crevasses and ice pitches has made the route so far unsafe for individual movement. Seems to be general agreement that the route is out of shape compared to previous years. We have word also that the Gondogoro-La is clased with an crevasse that has opened up near the top. Al Gore hardly needs more ammunition but there certainly seems to be evidence this summer of mountains on the move.

We'll hope the good weather window forcast to begin to day allows slopes to consolidate and for Blair, Taqui and Akbar to be out front pushing the route to C3 in the days ahead. If they are able to reach C3 by thursday this would allow summit attempts over the weekend and we'll hope the weather cooperates. Here is Ryan's note.....

From Ryan at BC

hello! this is ryan waters checking in from basecamp.

All the groups continue to work together here on g2 to try and get the route in. Dave and Vladimir were up high with Piotors strong slovakian group and they have fixed rope very close to c3. All of our team spent the 7th and 8th in camp1 and saw about a half meter of snow fall.

We made a long descent back to basecamp today. we have a few members eyeing the trail out of here due to the demands of normal life and plane tickets. Tomorrow morning Blair and our high porters will be leaving with a big group of other teams to try a route and summit push during this week.

So stay tuned as we may have some progress if the weather cooperates for a change!

July 6, 2007 - Summit push reaches C2

From stu in the us office.

I received a short SMS from Blair at BC and he reports that Dave and Vladimir are already at C2, Grant and Warwick at C1 and that he, Ryan and Mary leave first thing saturday am for C1. If all goes well the team is looking at summit shots on monday and tuesday when the good weather is forcasted. Apparently a food deposit Blair had stashed at C2 has gone missing, perhaps under the snow or perhaps "borrowed". We hope it turns up but in the meantime the plan is to bring extra along!

 

July 5, 2007 - Further details on Summit push

From Ryan at BC

7/5/07

This is Ryan Waters reporting in from Basecamp of Gasherbrum 2.

Dave, Vladimir, Warwick, and Grant left this morning at 3 a.m. For camp 1. They plan on climbing to camp 2 tomorrow morning. At the same time myself, Blair, and Mary will climb to camp 1 a day behind the other group.

The weather is clear today but the forecast is predicting increasing winds above 7k meters. We realize this and will proceed with caution on an attempt to push through to the summit between now and roughly the 10th of july. We are leaving behind the relative comforts of basecamp for the high camps in an all out push to the top, as we have some members that must leave bc soon. Now it all depends on the weather gods, and safe route conditions.

Life has been difficult on the Gasherbrum glacier this season, with long bouts of bad weather, difficult route conditions, the death of a member of another expedtion, and a declining amount of good reading material and coffee. The Americans in our group have made all the jokes we can about Australia, Boomerangs, Fosters Beer Veggiemite, and vice versa about gun toting, peanut butter eating Americans!

Wish us luck, Inshallah we have good news from up high very soon!

July 4, 2007 - Plan for Summit push

From Stu in the US office

We had a call from Ryan at BC letting us know that everyone is healhy and well.

They have been waiting out more bad weather and are now ready to move up the mountain in the days ahead. Taqui and Akbar left on the 3rd to further stock the highest camps and continue the route up from C2. On the 5th Dave and Vlad and Grant will comprise the first wave and begin to move up the hill. On the 6th Ryan, Blair, Mary and Warwick will comprise the second wave and begin up the route. This wil be the major push up the hill and will good weather reports they hope this window will open and hold for them as they make this critical run up the hill. with very good luck they hope to summit around the 11th or 12th. A few members have travel plan that will preclude them form remaining on the mountain much past the 16th while the rest will have addtional time if needed before moving efforts over to G1.

We hope to have a full dispatch in the next 48 hours and will be in contact with the team as they move up the hill. We'll bring you word as we have it!

 

July 1, 2007 - Detailsof the first run to C2

From Stu in the US office

We have had a few dispatches sent yesterday from the team and hopefully should receive a few pics soon. You can read the dispatch they wrote while on the hill on the 26th in its chronological place and the most recent from the 30th right here.

From ryan in BC on the 30th June

Hello all and sorry for the delay in dispatches, but it has been a busy few days. We are all here in basecamp now.

During the past week, our high porters, dave and blair climbed to just below camp 2 where they encountered a large overhanging ice bulge and stashed our c2 gear there. A rope has been fixed to c2 but it will take a combined effort from other teams to beat the route into shape. We cllimbed to camp 1 and spent an acclimatization night there and unfortunately the beginning of a 4 day storm dumped huge snow on all there.

Yesterday, around 40 climbers from various teams joined together and had to climb down the route to basecamp, we all took turns postholing in the deep snow trying to follow the wands marking the route. Many crevasses were standing in our way and the only way to find them was to fall in! After 7 hours we all made it down to BC for some much needed rest.

Warick has been sidelined with a Flu but is almost back to 100% and ready to go. Now we are in holding for the storm to pass, let a few sunny days settle the snowpack, and listen to the many avalaches clearing the slopes. We are ready to go on a summit push as soon as we can get our gear to camp 3 and the route is safe, so now we wait, try to tell new jokes and stories, and wish we had the monopoly board...

Best Regards,
Ryan and the rest of the FTA G2 Team

June 29, 2007 - Back from C2

from stu in the US office, 7:00amEDT

After a short quiet stretch we have received the good news from the team just a few minutes ago that they are back safely in BC after having reached C2 at approx 6450m!

Ryan reports that the conditions are very difficult and among the worst he has ever seen and says that these will be difficult mountains to climb in the weeks ahead.This matches with what is being reported on K2 and Broad with deep snow on the highest slopes (waist to chest deep) and rapid unexpected snow fall in higher camps. Both of these hills have climbers who have already made aborted summit attemtps already due to this deep snow.

The fact that our team has had the hard work of the ice fall to fix that has kept them lower on the mountain longer and enabled them to continue to progress when work on other mountains has come to a standstill. The next time up , when they will try to push though to C3, will be an exciting time as they may be able to contemplate a summit push. We hope the weeks ahead brings stable weather and consolidating slopes.

After they have had a good supper and a sleep we we will look forward to a more detailed account of the past days in the morning.It is good to know that they are all down safe and sound and and now family and friends at home can sleep well too!

June 26, 2007 - Moving up

From the team at Depot Camp

Vlad reappearreed a few days ago, after trekking the length of the Karakoram looking for his bag, originally misplaced by the airline. Bag found, he is now a happy camper!

Today we headed up to Depot Camp, above the first icefall, with our second load. Taki and Akbar left before us and are now at Camp 1, pushing the route to Camp 2. The icefall was filled with people going up and down. Above the icefall, in the crevasse field, we idly noted a spectacular avalanche, until we realised it was heading straight for us. Ryans injunction to run up the hill to avoid being buried in a gully, brought out reserves of energy none of us thought we actually possessed. While the debris did not reach us, the wind blast and snow cloud did, leaving us looking like Christmas ornaments.

We relocated Depot Camp, and now are all set to move up to Camp 1, weather permitting.

June 23, 2007 - Life's a Beach at BC

from the team at BC

Hi all,
Currently all members are down in base camp enjoying the warm and sunny weather.

We are pleased to report that Vlad has finally made his way back to base camp after finding his missing duffel bags. Which failed to make it here to base camp with him thanks to the airline he flew to Pakistan with (we won't mention any names)

It has been estimated that some 20 or so groups will be sharing base camp in their attempts to scale G1 and G2. Our group was one of the first to arrive which has left us with the hard task of putting in the route up the intial part of the mountain. In the last couple of days some of the other expeditions have arrived and set up camp. This is welcome news for us as it means that now the task of making the route and fixing ropes up the mountain to ensure a safe expedition can be shared equally amongst all of us.

The call is for the fine weather to hold out for a few more days before taking a turn for the worse. How bad the weather is expected to get is anyones guess. This after all is the Karakoram!

Our porters Taqui and Akbar plan to move up to camp 1 in a day or so to establish things higher on the mountain. Stocking both ABC and camp 1 before moving on to start putting in the route along the ridge to camp 2. This will be hard and unenviable work to say the least.

Until later. Thanks to all for your support and stay tuned for more details soon.

Bye for now
from the FTA G2 expedition

June 22, 2007 - ABC established and route set to C1!

from Stu in the US office

We have had a few short calls with the team at BC and they have been busy sharing the work of establishing the Advanced Base Camps and Setting the route to C1. It is nice to see the experienced and committed high altitude porters who were so instrumental on our successful trip to Broad Peak last year are once again proving themselves on G2. Vladimir has also rejoined the team at BC with bags in hand and ready to head up to ABC after a rest day.

At the same time that the climbers are reaching C1 the trekkers were coming out to Skardu and we have word from our ground agent that they had good luck and were able to fly and not have to do the 23-hour drive again. They have had the best of both worlds with a drive up the Karakoram Highway and a flight back with a great view of Nanga Parabat!

From Dave at BC

Hi from G2 BC!
Yesterday Blair, Grant, Paulo and I worked our way back through the bottom part of the Gasherbrum icefall. After reaching the top of the first section Grant and Paulo called it their high point and headed back to basecamp. Blair and I decided we would continue up the glacier through the second icefall and push the route through to Camp One. It took 12 hours to complete but we were successful in gettiing the route through in part due to the hard work of the High Altitude Porters, Blairs strength coming off Lhotse and determination. The other expeditions will hopefully now follow and get the route more established and work on Camp Two while we rest!

As I write this Ryan, Mary and Warwick are working their way back from reaching the top of the first icefall, where they dropped a load and established an ABC. This will allow climbers to split the very long day to camp one in two days.

Basecamp life continues to be good with great food coming from our cook staff, movie nights,and tent improvements...Grant is currently outside working on elevating his status as best tent setup (I think I saw a second level going in!).

Our thoughts to all family and friends,

Dave Elmore
June 22nd

June 19, 2007 - Pirates of the Gasherbrum in the Icefall!

from Stu in the US office

We have received 2 notes from basecamp and it is clear that the climb is truly under way with the route being established to C1 and members stepping on the route. These are exciting days as the team has the opportunity and responsibility for setting the route and fixing the ropes that will be used not only by our team but by many teams to follow. As these other teams arrive they will enjoy the advantages of finding a route in place but miss out on the hard work, joy and exhilaration of being the very first to step foot on the mountain. Whether the summits yields to our efforts only time and weather can know but these early days will stand out as among the most memorable for our team.

Having joined efforts with an italian team already the spirit of cooperation bodes well for all of the climbers and we look forward to buona fotuna for all!

June 18
From Dave E at basecamp

Hello from g2 basecamp!

It has been a long time coming but now we are assembled with our climbing team. We left Islamabad around the 3rd, have braved the KKH (Karakoram Highway), extremely hot trekking days, minor illness, Vladimirs missing bag saga, one big birthday party,and a 4 day storm. Ahh the adventure truly begins now.

Our trekking team has left concordia to head back to skardu, we wish them safe journey. We had a climbing team meetiing this morning over fresh baked bread, coffee and tea. Tonight at 3 am we hope to send a group into the icefall to establish a route to c1.

Thanks to family, friends, and sponsors for help making this all possible.

All is well, thanks for following the adventure,

ryan, dave, blair, grant, mary, paulo, warick, vladimir, our pakistani staff taqui and ackbar, sultan, kareem, reaz, and fida.

Icefall leading to C1 with Italian climbers visible

PS. Hola alexia, que en pakistan?

June 19
From Dave E at basecamp

Greetings from G2 basecamp!

The team woke to a beautiful day today, with great views of GI (8,068m) and surrounding peaks.

Our team is working on getting the route to Camp I in through the Gasherbrum icefall. This morning at 3am Ryan, Taqui and Akbar were successful in getting the route halfway up the icefall in conjunction with two Italian climbers. Tomorrow with stable weather, I will set out with a team in hopes of getting the rest of the route through to camp I.

Warrick, Mary, Paulo, Grant and Blair are in good spirits and healthy...spending days drinking water, resting, reading and anxiiously awaiting our next movienight. Last nights movie was the new Pirates of the Carribean, which left the team a bit disappointed and with cold feet as the temperature dropped to -15. Our thoughts go out to family and friends.

Cheers, Dave Elmore

PS The attached photo is the icefall. The lower right hand corner shows the 2 Italian climbers descendiing.

PPS Hi Athena, CF, Mom, WCE!

 

 

June 16, 2007 - Trekkers for Skardu, Climbing Team waiting out the snow

from Stu in the US office

After 4 days up at Concordia or beyond the trekkers time to turn and descend has arrived. The hope had been to head over to the Gondogoro pass and exit by Hushe. Alas 3 days of continuous snow have deposited more than a meter of fresh avalanche-prone snow and the pass has been closed until the snow ends and the slopes settle.

Nameless Tower of the Trango Group Our team has had reports of a number of western groups who made their way to Ali camp only to be turned around despite vigorous conversation with the local group responsible for maintaining the pass. It is the responsibility of trekking teams to not only think about the safety of their members but of the support staff and porters as well and Dave Elmore and his group have made the wise and fair decision to return to Skardu by Askole rather than spend several days waiting for the possibility of the pass reopening and being the first to test the safety of the crossing.

We know that the members are disappointed not to make the crossing but they seem to have more than made up for it with an impromptu surprise party for Dave Withington complete with singing, dancing and balloons! Happy 59th Birthday Dave!! Additionally the team will be able to have some shorter and easier days descending and therefore more time to soak up the extraordinary views along the route. They will be coming down past the Trangos and Masherbrums again and have ample opportunity to etch the scenery in their memories. The easier days will be a great benefit to a few members struggling with GI infections. The schedule calls for them to arrive in Askole on the 21st and return to Skardu on the 22nd. With good luck they will be able to fly back on the 23rd or esle they will begin the 2-day ride back to Islamabad on the 24th.

On the 15th Blair made his way from Concordia to basecamp and joined the group there. He has moved very quickly up the valley and looks to have double-staged a few times to accelerate his schedule and we look forward to hearing from him how his solo trek was. Ryan's group reports that they are sharing BC with Slovenian, Chinese and Korean climbers and enjoying the low population count so far. The snow which has closed the pass has also kept the climbing team grounded at BC with the slopes of G2 also dangerously laden with new snow. They will have to wait some days for avalanches to come down and the snow to stabilize before venturing out onto the mountain. In the meantime they will have lots of time for sorting gear, playing cards and resting up for the hard work ahead. This weather delay will also allow Dave and Mary and Warwick to rejoin them and be a part of the first forays on the route.

On a frustrating note Vladimir is still awaiting his bag and has descended to Concordia to be sure that he intercepts it sooner. Much of his cold weather clothes and boots are in the bag and it was not tenable for him to wait many days in a cold base camp. The home office has been ringing phones in Islamabad and skardu and we have been assured that the bag is with a porter and scheduled to arrive on the 18th at G2. Leaving no stone unturned our ground agent, ATP, is also sending a representative with a satellite phone to Askole ensure that the porter responsible has not been turned about with illness or injury. We had hoped the bag would have been in the same porter group coming in with Blair but this clearly has not been the case. Communications can be challenging in such a remote area and often the only way is in person armed with the latest technology! We hope to have good word in a few days that Vladimir is back in G2 BC with boots and bag in hand.

We look for the weather to improve in the coming days and for the hard work of establishing the route on G2 to get under way!

 

June 15, 2007 - K2 Basecamp Reached!

from Stu in the US office

K2 on a clear day from near Broad Peak BC.

An excited Dave Elmore called in with the good news that he along with Dave Withington, George, Ian and Martin had all reached K2 BC on a snowy day. Despite the lack of views of the moutain's top they were thrilled ot have a close-up view of the lower slopes and to see first hand the expeditions preparing for a go at the world's second highest mountain.

On the 13th when the group arrived in Concordia they were treated to a clear and beautiful day with spectacular views of all the famed and revered peaks - especially the one they most came to see: K2!

On the 14th when they, along with Diane, Latifa and Jason, set out for K2 BC there was snow falling and the route was complicated by slippery conditions so they opted to go only as far as Broad Peak BC and stop for the night. With the snow continuing to fall lightly today (the 15th) the decision was made to take a short 2 hour walk up to K2 BC for a look around and a solemn visit to the memorial on the flanks of K2 before returning back to concordia and giving everyone the opporunity for a good rest day on the 16th.

The remainder of the trekking group had decided to remain in Concordia and rest up for the pass. A few members are fighting GI infections and these are well needed days to keep hydrated and give their bodies a chance to heal up.

We expect a call on the 16th from the G2 climbing team and look forward to hearing how they are doing at the very quiet G2 basecamp. Their solitude will be shortlived as other groups arrive in the next few weeks but for the moment they will have the wonderful and rare experience of being one of just a very few people on the slopes of an 8000m peak.

 

June 13, 2007 - Concordia bound!

from Stu in the US office

Concordia Campsite with Broad Peak massif behind.

I had a great call from Dave Elmore and it sounds like the rest day was just what the doctor ordered! Members with minor medical challenges on the mend and sore feet getting the airing out and rest required! In good spirits and looking forward to getting back on the trail, the main group will reach the awesome vantage point of Concordia today.

Blair is quickly catching up to the group and will arrive shortly. We received the following SMS message "HI STU.WILL ARRIVE TO G2 BASE CAMP ON 16 JUNE.WILL BE IN CONCORDIA 14 JUNE.ALL IS OK.VERY HOT AND DUSTY.C U.BLAIR". It is confirmation that this has been and remains a particularly hot and dry trek in the past few weeks and therefore a more demanding experience than usual for our intrepid group.

With a full day in Goro 2 to adjust the itinerary and set up logistical support the team has decided to set up camp in Concordia until the morning of the 17th. During this time the trekkers will have the opportunity to trek to K2 basecamp on the 14th and spend 2 nights there before returning to Concordia. Those with a desire to rest and prepare themselves for the Gondogoro crossing will have ample opportunity to do so and can even take a day walk towards K2 base camp on the 15th or 16th.

The plan if for all members to cross the Gondogoro pass and exit by Hushe but we have set up the option to return via Aksole anyone who so desires. On the 16th in the afternoon the trekkers will make the final decision whether to join the group headed for Gondogoro La or to return via Askole to Skardu.

Chogalisa and its serrated summit ridges

The climbing team will be making their way to Shagring today, arrive at Gasherbrum 2 BC on the 14th and begin the expedition proper on the 15th. As Mary and Warwick have family members heading for the crossing they will join them over the pass and along with Dave Elmore return to Gasherbrum BC on the 21st or 22nd.

Trekkers and climbers alike are today treated to the unobstructed views of some of the highest peaks in the world with Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV straight ahead, Mitre and Chogalisa on their right top of the pyramid of K2 rising to their left. The trekkers will pass just beneath the serrated summit of Chogalisa on the 17th as they make their way to Ali camp and will find themselves in awe of the scale of the mountain as they near its precipitous and rarely climbed slopes.

We look forward to hearing in a few days from Dave in K2 BC and from Ryan in G2 BC and will share the latest news with you then!

 

 

June 11, 2007 - Goro 2 and a rest day ahead

from Stu in the US office

The team reached Goro 2 last evening and has decided to take a day there to rest tomorrow. I spoke both Dave and Ryan and it sounds like the trekking conditions have been very challenging and a few members are being slowed by chest/GI infections.This in addition to a few blisters among the trekkers makes it a clear choice to ease off the pace and let everyone take a well needed chance to drink, eat, rest and sleep.

Trekking near Goro2 in the land of snow and ice!

On the 13th everyone will trek to Concordia and have a final lunch together. Then the climbing team will continue on towards G2 base camp and the trekkers will have the following day to amble up to K2 BC or simply soak up the views. During the rest day tomorrow the itinerary for the trekkers will be fine tuned and we look forward to hearing the details.

The trekking has changed dramatically for the group now that they are up on the glacier and the landscape has given way to a glacierscape with sharks' fins of snow and ice rising up all about them. In this otherworldy place they are very far removed from the comforts of Skardu and Paiju but are only a short effort away from being in the throne of the mountain gods where the Gasherbrums, Broad Peak, Mitre peak, Chogalisa and K2 will surround them.

Tonight also marks the first time they will be camped on the glacier proper and likely they will feel and hear the groan of the glacier as it moves inexorably towards Paiju. The glacier flows down hill and around cornered at roughly 6ft/2m a day and for the patient few who wish a free ride down the 62km Batoro glacier they will only need 31,000days (or about 85 years) of vacation to take Baltoro Express!

June 8, 2007 - Made it to Paiju!

from Stu in the US office

Trekking near Paiju on a hot dry day!

Ryan called in a few hours ago to let us know that the team made it to Paiju and are very much looking forward to a rest day tomorrow. They had a long day and are ready for a big supper and then a well deserved sleep.

The weather has been great and so it has been hard to fend off the dehydration in the arid and high environment and everyone is glad to be in camp having tea and soup! Despite the demanding and desiccating day the members of both trekking and climbing groups are healthy and happy. A few people have gurgly stomachs but no major problems have arisen as of yet.

Vladimir's bag has already reached Skardu today and will be making its way to Askole tomorrow with Blair. We look forward to having Blair and the bag reunited with the team and Vladimir in less than a weeks time.

Group shot from Paiju campThe team is camped amid a beautiful grove of trees and these are the last trees they will see until they reach the far side of the Gondogoro Pass. For the trekkers this will be almost 10 days but for the climbers they will not see anything taller than grass for the next 6 weeks!

Paiju campsite is located on a hillside with the enormous snowcapped Paiju Peak looming over head. Paiju a Balti word which means "salt" and the presence of salt deposits at the base of the peak have given rise to the local belief that the mountain is not covered by snow but rather a huge deposit of salt!

 

 

 

June 7, 2007

from Stu in the US office

I am just off the phone with Dave Elmore and they team happily made their way today to Jhula and completed the first leg of the trek towards Concordia and the K2 and G2 basecamps.

Yesterday they left very early at about 6am in 4x4's to make their way over the rough and wild roads to Askole. The breathtaking scenery, river crossings and staggering road engineering has been awe inspiring leading Dave to compare and the ride to Askole to one of the 7 wonders of the world!

While they were sleeping in their tents in Askole the home office busy was making calls and emails to chase down Vladimir's bag. Early this morning, before the team awoke to set out for Jhula, the bag had been picked up by our ATP rep and was put on a bus to Skardu. It will be a great present for Vladimir finally gets his bag sometime in the days ahead. Likely a few porters will amble into camp and dump a 25kg bag and Vlad will receive it with a big smile and open it with wonder and relief! There is a good chance the bag will come in with Blair as he arrives in skardu tonight and will be heading towards Askole in a few days time.


Roughing it in the Karakoram: Toilet Facilities in Jhula Dave reports that the trekkers and climbers are all feeling well and in great spirits. The warm and sunny day did takes its toll on a few members who needed lots of drinks when they arrived in camp. I recall in 2003 on the way to Broad Peak that a few of us nearly got heat stroke on the way to Jhula (despite drinking liters of water!) and three days later nearly got hypothermia on a wet snowy day heading to Goro II.

The team will enjoy another warm day tomorrow on the way to Paiju where a welcome rest day awaits them. This rest day is a critical one for the porters who will be preparing all the food they will need for the two weeks ahead of them and there will be lots of meat and bread prepared on this day when they got into camp. Leaving Paiju they officially will step foot on the glacier and life will cool down quite a lot!

Lest you think they are roughing it the picture is a shot of the toilet facilities in Jhula and this combined with solar powered lights makes Jhula and Paiju two of the most serene camping experiences to be had in the remote corners of the world.

Stay tuned for more news and pics!!

June 5, 2007

from Stu in the US office

Final supper in Skardu

Ryan and his team have been very busy today sorting gear and making final preparations. I had a chance to talk to Ryan this morning at the Concordia Hotel and he sounded excited to get the packing and repacking of gear done and get on the road. We had along night in the US office on the phone to Continental Airlines and still have not located Vladimir's second bag but are hopeful!

Coming in late from his climb on Lhotse Blair had hoped to catch a plane this morning but the weather in Skardu has been cloudy enough that no planes have flown for several days. Blair will be joining 3 spaniards who are sharing our permit and is scheduled to rejoin the team at BC on the 17th or so. Vladimir may await his baggage and come in with Blair and this decision will be made in the next 10 hours.

The team will enjoy a fine meal tonight at the hotel and will be setting off early for the rough ride to Askole. Ryan's final internet cafe dispatch is below.

From Ryan in Skardu

Hello from Skardu!

The trekking and climbing team are here finishing up our packing. We have purchased the last minute things and are looking forward to getting on the road to Askole tomorrow. We have a large team of 15 trekking members and 8 climbing team members heading for Gasherbrum 2, 8,032 meters!


The road to Askole! Dave Elmore, guide and trekking team leader has the team ready to go, and we are almost set with our climbing team. Vladimir is missing baggage and our last member, Blair is still on the way to skardu, but soon we should be all a complete team somewhere along the trekking route.

We hope to send a few photos along soon from the trek and we send everyone best wishes from the north of Pakistan.

Cheers
Ryan

June 4, 2007

from stu in the US office

After two very long and demanding days of driving the team is in skardu tonight and looking forward to a rest day tomorrow The team will also have the task of packing and repacking gear for the strip to basecamp. Trekkers will be free to take a ride up to Satpara Lake (see image at left) or amble about town and do some shopping and sightseeing.

Our final member Blair Falahey is arriving tonight in Islamabad and will hopefully catch a flight in the morning to skardu and join them for the rest day. If the flights will not go then he is scheduled to join a trekking group and come into BC a few days after the main team. As he is coming off of Lhotse and will be well acclimatized he may even be able to catch up with the group in either Paiju or Concordia.

In just a few days the team will leave for Askole and we are sure they will be looking forward to getting out of their bus/jeep seats and on foot at last. We'll look for a full report from Ryan tomorrow after he gets a good nights sleep and has the latest on the situation in Skardu!

 

June 1, 2007

from stu in the US office

Just off the phone with Dave Elmore and our team is growing by the minute. Ian, Janet and Paulo came in early this morning followed closely by George with the big aussie contingent due in a few hours. Preparations are coming well with meetings with the ministry today for taking care of all the permits. Dave and Salman spent some time discussing the trekkers and everything is going according to schedule so far.

May 31, 2007

from ryan waters in Islamabad

Hello from Islamabad Pakistan! The 2007 FTA Gasherbrum 1 and 2 Expedition is officially underway with our first team members arriving in Islamabad. This is Ryan Waters, Expedition Leader checking in. I am here with Dave Elmore, Assistant Guide. We arrived last night in from Bangkok on the same plane as 2 of our trekking team members, Karen and I Fan. Today we will meet with our local logistics company Adventure Tours Pakistan and begin the organizing of our last minute details before the arrival of the bulk of our team members in the next couple days. We are fueled up this morning on Dunkin Donuts coffee, strategically within walking distance of the hotel, and ready to take on the start of our adventure! We will be updating those following along regularly with reports and pictures along the way, so stay tuned for news here!

 

May 30, 2007

from stu in the US office
Today marks the arrival of our first team members and the commencement of our trip! Ryan Waters and Dave Elmore joined up in Bankok for a day of planning and then met up with trekkers I fan Kuo or Karen Soo Kee at the airport for their Thai Airways 509 flight into Islamabad. Arriving late tonight they headed straight to the hotel for a welcome sleep after several days of travelling. We have reports of other teams already as far as Urdukas so the roads and paths look to be clear already...a great sign for our team who plans to be one of the first teams into Gasherbrum 2 this year.

Over the next few days the team will arrive and on the 3rd our team will set of towards Chilas en route to Skardu where a welcome rest day will await them.

We remain very busy in the offices with lots of final details and emails and excited for our members to get under way!