Cho Oyu 2007 Expedition Dispatches

BACKGROUND

About FTA and Cho Oyu

Our 2007 Cho Oyu xpedition will be led by Jacob Schmitz who will be supported by, assistant Chris Szymiec and expedition doctor Veronika Bartova.All but one of the members of the trip have been on a Field Touring trip before and we expect the team to be very cohesive and have a ton of fun! They will join their experiences on 5 different FTA trips to Aconcagua, Ama Dablam and Spantik and attempt their first 8000m peak.

We welcome you to follow our 2007 team as they make their way across the high passes of Tibet to BC and then tackle this 8000m giant.

If you would like to receive email updates with images and commentary during the expedition please drop a note to stu@fieldtouring.com.with the subject "Cho Oyu Dispatches"..

Cho Oyu (Beijing) Time

Latest NEWS

October 9, 2007 Team heading home and ready for a hot shower!

October 5, 2007 Everyone safe and sound in ABC, final summit attempt brewing!

October 3, 2007 First team back in ABC, Second team on the move from C2!

September 29, 2007 First team holed up in C1, C2 tomorrow? Eureka tents standing strong!

September 28, 2007 Summit push is on!

September 26, 2007 Lyngve at C1, tents destroyed by the storm

September 25, 2007 Snowy days in ABC

September 24, 2007 C2 established, snowy days and retooling the schedule

September 20, 2007 C1 established!

September 17, 2007 Team has reached ABC and left the Yaks behind! Happy Birthday to Meaghan!

September 14, 2007 Team has arrived to BC!

September 13, 2007 Gear and team united and off to BC tomorrow

September 12, 2007 Team already in Tingri and alll well

September 10, 2007 A day in Zhangmu

September 8, 2007 Expedition Under Way! Heading off to Zhangmu

September 4, 2007 Arriving in Kathmand!

CLIMBING TEAM | SPONSORS | CHO OYU 2007 DISPATCHES | CHO OYU 2007 INFO PAGE | FTA DISPATCH CENTER

SPONSORS

We woud to thank the following companies for their generous support for our 2007expedition.

THE CLIMBING TEAM

Jacob Schmitz (USA) Leader

After leading our team on a successful Spantik expedition, which placed 10 members on the top, Jacob is now off to take the helm on our inaugural Cho Oyu expedition.

Armed with a superior background in big wall rock climbing, ice climbing and mountaineering, Jacob brings this experience to his guiding work and is a respected and busy guide around the world. In particular his background in teaching introductory mountaineering courses in Alaska makes him a fantastic guide for members looking to learn a great deal on expeditions.

During his many years climbing in the U.S., Asia, Africa, Argentina and more Jacob has led trips for Mountain Trip, Alaskan Mountain Guides, Advenure Patagonica and guided extensively in Alaska (including Fairweather and Denali), Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua. His personal climbing resume includes many years of big wall climbing in Yosemite and mountaineering in the USA, Patagonia, Ecudaor and Mexcico. Jacob is also certified as a Wilderness First Responder and will be offering an optional Wilderness First Aid course to members. read more about Jacob and our other guides

For more about Sean and our other guides see our staff page.

Chris Szymiec (CAN) Assistant Leader

Chris joins our climb direct from assisting (and summiting!) on our Spantik expedition. After the Cho Oyu trip Chris will lead our Ama Dablam/Everest Base Camp Trek and then accompany Tsering and the November starters on Ama Dablam .

Living full time in the Canadian Rockies Chris's typical weekends include quick trips up 50-70° snow and ice climbs and checking out the insides of crevasses! Originally from the Alberta, Canada, Chris learned much of his skill in the maritimes with ocean waves splashing at his feet while climbing fleeting ice flows. Not much fear here! Chris is a qualified Wilderness First Responder, working towards his EMT certification and guides part time for Outward Bound Canada.

For more about Chris and our other guides see our staff page.

 

Veronika Bartova (Czech) Expedition Doctor and Climber

Veronika M. Bartova was born in Czech Republic, spent two years at high school in Melbourne, Australia, studied medicine in Prague, Czech Republic. She specialised in internal medicine, nephrology and dialysis and worked at the Faculty Hospital, Charles University in Prague. For the past 7 years she has been working in GlaxoSmithKline Pharma in Czech Republic.

She has trekked and climbed several peaks in Czech Republic, Slovakia (Gerlachovsky stit 2 655 m), Italy, Austria (e.g. Grossvenediger 3 666 m), Slovenia, Switzerland (e.g. Monch 4 100 m), France including Corsica and Reunion (e.g. Piton des Neiges 3 069 m), Nepal (trekking and crossing several cols above 6 000 m from Makalu BC to Island Pk), Tanzania (Mt Kilimanjaro 5 895 m), China (Mustagh Ata 7 565 m), Pakistan (trekking over Biafo Gl and Gondogoro Gl).

In the past 2 years she joined Field Touring Alpine Snow Lake Trek over the Biafo Gl and Hispar Gl, climbing Workman Pk 5 895 m and Spantik 7,027 m in 2006.

 

Greg Andrews, (Australia) Climber

Greg started wandering about mountains with Mera Peak in Nepal & has since summited Elbrus, Aconcagua (with FTA) , Cotopaxi, Illinizas Norte, Cayambe, Imbabura, the Snow Lake traverse and messed about on Mt. Cook & Chimborazo. He was a founding member and Project Director of The Millenium Expedition to Nepal for Young Australians over 2000/01 and has worked in market research, outdoor magazine publication, financial services and recently for The International Award (the Duke of Ed. Award in Australia).

 

 

 

Surech Kuppusamy, (Malaysia) Climber

Age: 29
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Aeronautical Engineer

Climbing and Rescue Experience in Himalaya and Alps including the 2006 Field Touring Ama Dablam expedition.

Member American Alpine Club (AAC); Nehru Mountaineering (NIM) , India.

Other Interests: Motorsports & Skydiving.

 

Meaghan Loughlin, (USA) Guide-in-Training

Meaghan Loughlin grew up climbing and hiking in Portland, Oregon and in the Central Cascades. During university she ventured to Montana, Patagonia, and Peru and landed in the Alaska Range to finish her degree from Alaska Pacific University in Outdoor Studies.

She completed her senior thesis by writing a logistical manual on climbing Aconcagua and high altitude training. Domestically her technical ice, rock, and alpine climbing has taken Meaghan to Alaska, Canada, Montana, Washington, Oregon, Wyoming, Colorado, and Arizona. She has participated in expeditions to Patagonia, Peru, Africa, Alaska, and Argentina.

Meaghan's guiding experience started last summer as an assistant guide on Denali working for Mountain Trip and she also assisted a 9-day trip to the Eldridge in the Alaska Range for North Cascade Mountain Guides. Currently she is working part-time in the North Cascades for Mountain Madness and full time for Alpine Ascents International.
Meaghan joins the team direct from 45 days in Alaska ski mountaineering in Valdez along with a 10 day personal trip completing the Upper West Rib on Denali.

Lyngve Skrede, (Norway) Climber

Lyngve is an exporer, adventurer and mountaineer and you can see all of his trips on his website at www.distantpeak.com One of his biggest adventures was a four months and 6300 kilometers long bicycle expedition through Mongolia, China, Tibet and Nepal, including a detour to Everest Basecamp (Tibet-side) on very rough roads. He is looking forward to the view form high on Cho Oyu of that route! . He has previously climbed Ama Dablam (with FTA in 2005), Island Peak, Lobuche East, Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and Zinalrothorn. All together more than 60 peaks above 4000 metres in addition to 215 lower peaks. When he's not traveling or climbing mountains, he works as a Business Controller in order to finance his next trip.

Ming Tenzing Sherpa (Nepal), Climbing Sherpa

1. Family Name: Sherpa
2. Given Name: Ming. Tenzing/Mr
3. Date and Place of Birth: 1970 Wada No 5 Nurbhu Village
4. Address Makalu V.D.C Dada no 5 Nurbhu Village
5. Mountaineering Back Ground:

Mt. Everest 2007 (Summit)
Shisapangma 2003 (Summit)
Cho-Oyu 2004 (Summit)
Annapurna 4 2006 (Summit)
Mera Peak, Island Peak, Lobuje East,

Rai "Tsering" Parsu Ram (Nepal), Climbing Sherpa

Date & place of Birth. Rakha 4 Kotang 1969
Training: Basic and advance course of Mountaineering from Manang Mountaineering Institute
Mountaineering Back Ground:
Mount Makalu up to Camp three
Mount Sisapangma up to 8000 meter
Mount Amadablam Summit (3 times)
Trekking Peak: Mera Peak (15 time summit) Island Peak (15 time summit) Lobuje Peak (10 time summit)

There is no more hard working and reliable sherpa . Helping to set the high camps early and support members delayed by illness or slow acclimation, Tsering is a revered and crucial member of our team. Competent and strong as a climber and gentle and sincere by nature he is a pleasure to spend a month with!

 

Ratna Man Gurung (Nepal), Base Camp Cook

Date & place of Birth: Barpkak, Gorkha 1969
Training: Basic and advance course of cooking
Mountaineering Back Ground: Ramduk Peak (Summit)

Working as cooking since 1995, Ratna has been on more than 30 Expeditions and has been our base camp cook in both 2005 and 2006 Ama Dablam expeditions and will be our BC cook for Cho Oyu in September before joining us for Ama Dablam in October.

No expedition would succede without a great cook and base camp manager and Ratna manages our health and home with a friendly and caring touch. He also has a wicked sense of humour so be forewarned!

Siddhi Bahadur Tamang (Nepal), Kitchen Boy

This will be Siddhi's second trip with FTA and we could not be more excited to have him along. By title Siddhi is a helper in the kitchen but this barely scratches the surface of the ways in which Siddhi can make the trip a success for everyone. His competence in the kitchen is excellent and he helps Ratna to keep us all well nourished for the hard work of climbing. He is also the resident nepali language instructor and takes great pride in helping our members to gain facility in nepali and during snowy days at BC this activity can be a life saver when the cards are worn and the batteries low! Siddhi is also an aspiring climber and learns everything he can from members. Inquisitive, funnny and capable there is little Siddhi will not accomplish if he wishes. We have supported him by helping him to take a mountaineering course this past summer and we hope to keep nurturing his goal of becoming a Sherpa guide.

 

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DISPATCHES

quick link: September 4 8 10 12 13 14 17 20 24 25 26 28 29 October 3 5 9

 

October 9, 2007 Heading home...

From Stu in the US office

Just off the phone with Chris and the news is that everyone is safely off the mountain and on the way home!

Jacob and Meaghan were still debating a summit push but they good weather never materialized and in fact became rather nasty! The team came all together back to Chinese BC and are on the road back to Zhangmu. If all goes well at the border they will be back in KTM on the 10th. We will look for a trip summary and some new pics in the next 24-48 hours.

I am sure that there are mixed feelings as they have left the upper part of the mountain untouched but all members set new personal high points and surely learned a great deal about how their bodies go at high altitude. I do think it is an imprtant point to note that all members chose to go without O2 or engaging personal sherpas and that they have given the mountain a good effort largely by their own group steam. A read through "Annapurna" by Maurice Herzog will remind us that though we think of 8000m summits often as somewhat forgone conclusion, that these peaks are still wild, unpredictable and demanding places just to survive. I am sure i am not alone in breathing a sigh of relief knowing that this year's team is coming home safe and sound. Now maybe all of us at home can finally have a good sleep!

cheers,

stu

October 5, 2007 All members at BC, hill cleared, one alpine summit push still to go?

From meaghan at ABC

Greetings from ABC!

Two days ago a 930 pm, Lyngve, Meaghan, Tsering and Tenzing got prepared for a summit attempt. The wind was blowing and the temperatures were not ideal for move from 7200m to 8201m so the decision to turn around was made. The decision made out to be wise, for later that day the summit ridge was gusting with wind. Later that morning Lyngve, meaghan ,Greg, Surech ,Tsering , and Tenzing packed up c2 and decended the fixed lines in wind that was hard to take a breath in to c1.

At c1 mama (Siddhi) came up to help break camp and we all came down to ABC. Greg and Tsering slept at c1 last night and are safely coming into ABC momentarily. The weather is deteriorating and is predicted to get better on the 6th/7th. There is talk about one last summit attempt from chris ,jacob, and meaghan...that is if the weather gods choose to open their doors to some high pressure in the next few days. Other than that the team is all healthy, in good spirits, and enjoying Ratna-man's world class cuisine here at basecamp!

That's it for now,

Cheers from ABC
Meaghan

October 3, 2007 First team in ABC and second team on th emove from C2 tonight!

From Stu in the US office
Sorry for the delay in sharing the movement of our team but Chris and the sat phone have been rather busy as you'll see! First and foremost everyone is safe and sound though 2 members do have colds at BC keeping them grounded. Meaghan, Lyngve, Greg, Surech, Tsering and Tenzing are all headed up from C2 tonight and we'll keep you up to date on their summit push!

Chris spoke with me some hours ago and sounded pretty shattered from taking part in a rescue for a climber for another team. He took a rest and then wrote up a detailed report and a dispatch for you all. In it Chris shares his dismay at the number of climbers (not from FTA) who demontrated little concern for helping out - a theme played on heavily lately in the media. These expeditions do offer a laboratory on human behavior and lets hope Darwin wanted more people like Chris to make it to the next round:-) Sounds like Alex Abramov was the central figure in this rescue so pretty sure he will pass on his gene pool too!

From Chris at ABC, October 3

The battle of high altitude attrition for the FTA 2007 Cho Oyu expedition has begun and our first summit push has returned to BC leaving Meaghan, Tsering, Tenzing, Lyngve, Suresh and Greg still to try for the top of this himalayan giant. They are all safely in C2 in excellent weather conditions and plan on leaving for the summit at 8pm Nepal time this evening October 3, 2007 from camp 2. They will arrive at C3 early in the am, rest and fuel up and if all is well continue on for a summit bid.

Everyone else is back safely at advanced base camp, their summit hopes dashed by the infinite number of obstacles and moral dilemmas one must overcome to climb these huge, busy mountains. Veronika has not coped well with this new breed Tibeten flu bug, and thus feels her limit is the 7000m mark. Jacob reached camp 2, 7100m, and after a few hours his throat had nearly swollen shut causing a cold, sleepless night. He descended in the morning and is now suffering from some sort of mysterious throat infection.

I (Chris!) reached camp 2 feeling well but after a sleepless night and symptoms of mild AMS I made the decision to descend to camp 1 in the afternoon of the 1st. I had a great sleep and woke up pondering whether to call it quits or go back up for another shot at the top. I left camp 1 at 10:30am on the 2nd stoked to climb the mountain. As I plodded upwards in beautiful weather I really felt I would make it, I felt great! At my usual rest spot, just below the big ice cliff, I saw a man hunched over sort of whimpering or crying.

There were many people walking past him focused on their own summit attempts. I sat down beside the man and asked him if he was ok. He told me he had just summited and that his partner had fallen and broken his leg while descending. A victim of fatigue and cramponed boots biting into the hard snow. We call it a boot line fracture. Snap! Right above the plastic boot. Alex, the boss of the 7 summits club was lowering the victim down the 15m ice wall just above us. Four sherpas, Pashang, Lakpha, Pemba and another Lakpha were assisting on the extremely difficult terrain at an altitude of about 6900m.

When they reached me I explained that I was trained in high angle rescue and first aid and that I would like to offer my assistance. They sort of looked at me like I was crazy and said, "what about your summit?". I told them that I'd been rescued before and that a man’s life is a far better reward than some summit. The Sherpas said something in Nepali to each other, one of them slapped me on the butt and said "you very good man, lets go", Alex handed me a rope and in his thick Russian accent said "you short rope him, keep head up hill".

We all prepared the injured climber for the descent by creating an improvised litter/sled with a number of ropes attached for keeping him steady and 'feet downhill'. Meanwhile, many climbers, and even a mountain guide walked down past us without a word. Also, two supposedly 'very famous' alpinists passed going up without even turning their heads. I was quite shocked at all of their abilities to so easily ignore such a serious situation. Disturbing and selfish beyond all words. Count 1 through 10, ohmmm.

Anyways, we started the 500 vertical meter, 2 km ridge line lower to camp 1 where a group of Tibetan porters were waiting to carry the injured man back to ABC and eventually a waiting jeep the next morning. The lower was pretty routine with all of us moving about with our short ropes keeping the sled in position through the challenging terrain. After about 4 hours of very tiring and stressful work, we managed to get our man safely back to camp 1, along with his partner who was exhausted, nearly in tears and suffering from acute frostbite on his left hand.

We celebrated our success with cup of hot tea and a big round of hugs, took five and loaded up the injured climber for the 4 hour walk across the glacier. In this case, a sturdy Tibeten piggy-back ride down 600m and over 5 km of glacier back to ABC. I was informed that both men left early this morning via yak for the road and onto Lhasa.
I'm bagged, done, arms stretched out of their sockets, brain-fried, inspired by those who took part in the rescue, and disheartened after bearing witness to short-sighted display of those who ignored the situation.

Jacob and I are now on standby, radios on, waiting to head back up the hill if our team needs us this evening. Good luck gang, stand on top and make us proud. Get back down safely so we can drink that beer we've been saving.

Peace out from Tibet
Chris .

September 29, 2007: Weather holding up the push and knocking down the tents!

From stu in the US office
Just off the phone with Jacob at C1and it sounds like the day has ended more peacefully than it began! Most importantly Jacob said all members are doing well and safe and sound.

With prospects of weather improving for Monday and Tuesday Jacob, Greg and Chris will try for C2 in the morning if the wind continues to remain moderate. Their biggest challenge has been strong winds and the Eureka! tents continue to be one of the few tents on the mountain (see below pic) able to withstand the demanding conditions. We have already called Eureka to thank them once again for such superb tents! With a very fickle weather pattern it is nice to have those tents!

Meaghan dropped down to ABC along with Tsering and they will rest a day or two and then join the second wave. They are both well but needing better rest after a sleepless and cold night at C1. You can see in the comparison pics below that ABC is quite a bit nicer than C1 for resting!

I expect another more detailed dispatch in the next 24 hours and we'll hope it includes lower winds and higher tents!

From Chris at C1 (and some pics)

Camp 1, 11:36am, winds gusting 60+mph
It sounds like a fleet of 747 aircraft are circling around Cho Oyu right now. Camp 1 is a virtual ghost town with the majority of teams having pulled off of the mountain. We are going to tough it out with hopes that this insane weather will break. Weather forcasts have been utterly wrong.
Tsering spent a cold night as a result of his tent being totally flattened (see photo) and woke up covered with snow. He went down first thing to ABC to dry out.
Just sitting out the weather in the belly of the jetstream.
Chris at camp 1.

Camp 1, 4:30pm
Hey Stu,
Me, Jacob and Greg are holed up at C1. The winds have died way down and three of us are planning on moving to 2 in the am.
Meg went down to ABC and will likely come up with 2 team.
Later
Chris

Flattened tents strewn about at C1 while the EUREKA! Fifth Season Exo stands unscathed!

Chris, Ratna, Veronika, Surech and Tsering enjoying the fine weather at ABC on September 27th!

September 28, 2007: Summit Push is on...now or never!

From Chris at ABC (and a pic he later sent form C1)

Hey Brother Stu,
Me, jacob and greg are holed up at 1. The winds have died way down and three of us are planning on moving to 2 in the am.
We have heard that the weather is going to be the same for the next 3 days or 1st through the 3rd maybe better...
Anything on your end?
Meg went down to abc and will likely come up with 2 team.
Later
Chris

Its now or never. Despite gusting winds and blowing snow at ABC, the first summit team is heading up to what remains of camp 1.

Two days ago we were informed that nearly 30 tents were blown off the mountain at camp 1, 6400m. The FTA team had 3 tents stocked with food, fuel, and gear for our upcoming summit push. After the big storm, two of our tents were left flattened with our amazing Eureka 5th Season Exo unscathed and standing tall. Luckily, even the destroyed tents still managed to keep our gear safe while hanging by a single snow picket over a 500m drop over the ridge line.

Today, the 28th, Jacob, Meaghan, Tsering, Greg and myself set off for our summit push. This evening we shall sleep in c1, then c2 at 7100m, c3 at 7600m and if everything works out just right, our crampons will crunch into the dry snow above 8200m on September 2 2007. That's the half way point!

Lyngve, Veronika, Mingma Tenzing and Suresh will set off from abc on Sunday the 30th. Jacob and I will stay on the mountain with Tsering; cleaning the hill and doing our best to support the second summit team.

Don't worry, I am packing the palm computer, satellite phone and solar panel along for the journey. I promise to do my best to keep everyone back home up to date on this, the climax of our expedition. I hope you will all excuse my diminishing literary artistry and less than verbose choice of diction in the days to come.

Chris from ABC-- Game On!

Enjoying a warm drink at C1 in the newly erected tents!

 

 

September 26, 2007: Lyngve descending, C1 tents demolished

From Stu in the us office

Chris wrote in a quick note letting us know that Lyngve was safely back down to C1 but has reported in that the tents have taken a bit of a hit during the storm and at least one of the three tents is demolished and one damaged.

"Well, it's been pretty much destroyed. 30 tents are either flattened or blown off the mountain. We have 3 up there. A Eureka Fifth Season Exo, a TNF VE 25 and a TNF Mountain 25. Lyngve is at 1 waitiing for Tsering to come up. From what we know we have 1 tent standing, 1 half destroyed and 1 fully destroyed. The definition of destroyed has yet to be determined and the status of our gear is still in question.We will know more in a few hours and will be in contact this evening. We still have extra tents at ABC so regardless, this is not a trip ender.
Chris"

It will be an interesting side-by-side comparison to see which of the three tents withstood the harsh conditions best!

September 25, 2007: Snowy days in ABC, Lyngve descending

From Chris at ABC

Jacob and I made the decision to retreat from camp 1 on september 24th due to excessive snow fall and avalanche danger on the steep slopes above. We had planned to move up to camp 2, apx 7100m, to join Lyngve but common sense prevailed.
Although many people have reached the summit, a number of teams have decided to pull off of the mountain completely due to high winds, snow and time constraints. Lyngve has been holed up in 2 for the 3rd night and plans to drop down to 1 or abc tomorrow the 26th.
The 'decision of the century' as it has been called has Jacob, Surech, Meaghan, Greg, Veronika, Tsering, Tenzing and me, Chris , all safe and warm at ABC. At least 8 inches (20cm) of snow has fallen today with another 12 more inches over the past 48 hours, lots of wind and lots of drifting white stuff.
Weather permitting, our first summit team of Jacob, Meaghan, Greg, Tsering, Tenzing and myself plan to move to camp 1 on the 27th. Stock camp 2 on the 28th and return to c1 on the 29th for a full day of rest on the 30th. We then plan to move up camp by camp and hopefully reach the top, 8201m, on the 3rd. Veronika and Surech will follow 2 days behind us but plan for a little extra time up high before trying for the top on the 6th of october.The whole team should be on the mountain to support and assist if need be. We have a big job on our hands,wish us luck.
Chris from ABC.

Tenzing clearing snow from one of the tents which was flattened durign the storm.

September 24, 2007: C2 established, nights at C1 and C2, snowy days and more!

From Stu in the US office, 24th 8am EDT

A fair amout of action over the weekend with big plans on the 22nd thwarted by the arrival of some 6 inches (15cm) of snow at C1. Chris wrote in on the 22nd with the plans to move up to C1 on the 23rd which most of the the team did. Veronika not feeling so wewll with a bad cold rested at ABC and Lyngve feeling strong moved from C1 to C2 and spent the night there. Unfortunately they awoke monday to fresh snow and decided to return to C1 and not risk the avalanche slopes between C1 and C2. Lyngve will remain for the day in C2 and come down at soonest on the 25th.

The team will rest a few days at ABC and on the 27th move back up to C1, move to sleep at C2 on the 28th, return to C1 for 2 nights rest and then make a summit push from C1with a hope to top out on the 3rd. It is very likley with the push that some members will move a little faster and others a little slower and they may well end up on two groups. Surech did not feel so well during the night at C1 and will enjoy two days of rest at ABC to recoop and reevaluate. Veronika is feeling better but also being realistic about her summit chances if her cold does not improve and will simply take it one day at a time - the only way one can in these high mountains!

From chris in on the 22nd from ABC

Finally, we are on the mountain! The approach to camp 1 weaves its way through a heavily crevased glacier with towering seracs. After the glacier, the big scree slope tops out above the camp 1 6400m.(photo)
Veronika decided to take an extra rest day while the rest of the team will sleep at camp 1 for the next two days and then move to camp 2 before 3 rest days at abc. The Sherpas established camp 2 at apx. 7100m today and plan spend the night there before coming down to grab tents, food and fuel for camp 3 at 7600m.
Our 400m of rope is now in place above camp 3 running up to nearly 8000m, just below the summit plateau. The majority of teams are preparing for their summit pushes and we should start hearing exiting news in the days to come.

View of climbers on the fixed lines leading out of C1 on the 23rd of September 2007.

September 20, 2007: C1 established! Moving up on the 22nd....

From Stu in the US office

I had a nice phone call with Jacob early this morning and they are having a great time on the hill and looking forward to making a push to establish and sleep at C2 in the next few days, come down and rest and then make a summit bid with hopes to top out in early October.

here is the latest news from the team and 2 new pics!

from Meaghan at ABC

After a pleasant rest day, Veronika, Greg, Lyngve, Meaghan, Tenzing and Tsering made a carry up to camp 1, 6350m. The morning started at two different times; all of us were in the cook tent at 6:00am Beijing time. Little did we know we had switched to Nepali time-meaning we were waiting for breakfast at 4:00 am! TOTAL DARKNESS!

The climb to camp 1 starts with a meandering walk through the glacier to the bottom of 'killer hill', a 350 vertical steep scree slope starting at nearly 6000m. Camp 1 is situated on a rather narrow snowy ridge. From here one can see the entire route to the summit, a full 1800 vertical meters.
Chris, Jacob, Suresh and the Sherpas made a carry to C1 today and the whole team plans to spend one rest day at ABC before moving into camp 1.
We donated 400m of 8mm rope to IMG sherpas who are fixing the route to camp 3.

Veronika sends her best to her daughter and Chris is really missing his little nephews.

Tata for now -Meaghan

[note 1 from stu: we like to play well with other groups and I asked the team to seek out anyone who had done a lot of the route fixing and offer rope/gear either for use on the hill. Some trips, as with G2 this summer, our team puts up enormous amounts of rope and gear and we find it odd that other teams often do not seek us out to share in this effort/expense. Seems a nice part of the community effort which is common on these big mountains!]

[note 2 from stu: Lyngve was feeling very strong this morning and was about to head up to C1 for an extra night of acclimatization. With tents and ropes in place he should enjoy a nice mellow day! I climbed with Lyngve on Ama Dablam in 2005 and he seems to acclimatize very well, is super strong and was at the front of our team there as well! ]

Our team preparing a tent site at the "village" at C1

Chris enjoying the fine weather and views at C1.

 

September 17, 2007: Now in Cho Oyu BC...Happy 25th birthday to Meaghan!

From Stu in the US office

I had a great phone call with Chris yesterday afternoon and everyone sounds well and they are eager to get on the hill and get climbing.

Now that they have arrived at the true climbing base camp it is a critical time for them all to reassess their health and strength and begin to move at appropriate paces to ensure the best summit push constitution. at least 8-10 days worth of intelligent climbing ahead for all of them. The team is large enough to accomodate 2-3 groups so hopefully everyone will find a good pace and schedule. We will enjoy seeing how it all unfolds and then hope that the weather cooperates in the crucial days when the go for the top.

Chris has written in with two dispatches, one yesterday from IBC (intermediate base camp) and one today from ABC (advanced base camp) and also a great pic of Meaghan now in her "late" 20's! Chris has sorted out the technical challenges we were having with images and we look forward to more high quality pics ahead!

From Chris at Advanced Base Camp, 17 September

The teaming tent city of abc will be our base of operation for the next 18 days. There must be at least 200 tents of various shapes and sizes. What a sight. At nearly 5800m, life is really starting to slow down. There is no room for big egos up here.
All is well and after a one or two rest days, those of the team fit enough will begin the challenging task of climbing an 8200m mountain!

namaste

Chris

From Chris at Intermediate base camp on the 16th

After an excellent 25th birthday celebration for fta guide-in-training Meahgan, aka "#3", the team has arrived at intermediate base camp on Cho Oyu at just over 5000m. A veritable yak civilization, IBC is teaming with dozens of massive beasts of burden. Twenty one of these amazing creatures carried our loads from base camp in just under five hours.

On an interesting side note: we had all been warned about leaving objects lying around camp but Meaghan thought nothing of leaving her pee bottle in front of her tent last night. Sadly, for the thief, it was quite recently used. Talk about quick karmik retribution! Ha ha !

Everyone is feelling well save for a few 'yak dung lungs' contracted at base camp. The weather has been quite unstable with minor storms arriving in the early afternoons. In fact, as I write this dispatch, a light snow has begun to fall, 8:20pm Bejing time.

Tomorrow morning we move up a short way to Advanced Base Camp for a couple of rest days before actually setting foot on the mountain. Everyone is in high spirits and we are all plotting our strategies for the climb.

Chris from IBC

FTA #3 Meaghan at ABC with massive north east face of Cho Oyu in the background.
image by Chris Szymiec 9-15-2007

 

September 14, 2007: Now in Cho Oyu BC!

Setting up base camp with Cho Oyu backdrop
image by Chris Szymiec 9-14-2007

From Chris in the Tingri

Finally! After a few challenging days dealing with landslides, language barriers and less than luxurious accomodations, we have arrived.

(note to self: anyone over 6ft tall should seriously consider wearing a helmet in Tibet. Doorways here pose a constant hazard from above.)

Cho Oyu base camp is located at a height of 4881m or 16015ft. A strange hybrid of climbing camp and Tibeten trading post, this incongruous mix of old and new will be our home for the next two days. The Tibeten nomads wander through our small tent city trying to sell their wares while dropping glances at our shiny solar panels and colorful climbing equipment; making the whole experience so much more than just another climbing trip.

From here, the team plans to move on to Intermediate Base Camp for a day then up to our more permanent home, Advanced Base Camp. We have hired 28 yaks to carry our load of over 60 bags, barrels and baskets up the dusty track and for us, it will be game on. Time to climb!

Everyone sends their love and best wishes to the folks back home.

Namaste Chris.

September 13, 2007: Team and gear reunite - on to BC in the morning!

Shishmapangma en route to Tingri
image by Chris Szymiec 9-13-2007

From Chris in the Tingri

The team has arrived in old Tingri and plans to spend a day seeing the sights and getting some exercise. The drive up was quite comfortable and the group was treated to amazing views of Shishapangma, Everest and of course our objective, Cho Oyu.
The local people have welcomed us into their quiet little town and despite the language barrier, we are able to somehow get through to each other on a very basic level.
Our gear arrived this morning from Zhangmu and we have plans of leaving for Cho Oyu base camp tomorrow morning.
All anxious,all ready to climb!

 

September 12, 2007: Team now in Tingri with Cho Oyu in View!

From Stu in the US office

Just off the phone with Chris and the team from their temporary abode in Tingri. They all sound fantastic and are getting very eager to reach the base camp as they have been tantalized by views of Shishmapangma, Cho Oyu and Everest on todays drive! On the 11th just when it seemd they would be in Zhangmu another night they receivd the word that the road was clear and they took off at 9:30 pm and reached Nylam at 1am. After a good sleep last night they all felt super and decided to push on to Tinri today which included crossing the Lalung-la and Lamna-la passes each at over 5000m. Having had 2 nights in Zhangmu (2400m/7900ft) they did not take a rest day in Nylam (3800m/12500ft) that is the commonly taken when arriving directly from Kathmandu. They will now spend one night in Tingri (4300m/14200ft) and likely take a rest day tomorrow before moving on to Cho Oyu BC and beginning the climb proper.

Chris will be sending along a formal dispatch in the next 12-24 hours and we will have that for you as soon as it comes in!

 

September 10, 2007: A Day in Zhangmu

From Stu in the US office

Chris checked in from Zhangmu to let us know that all members, staff and baggage have made it safely through into Tibet and are now in Zhangmu waiting for a few mudslides to be cleared before procededing to Nylam hopeully in the morning of the 11th. There are apparently 3 or more teams on the way to Cho Oyu sharing the sights and sounds of one of the worlds famous gateway border towns. I had the pleasure of the visit in 1996 and it is a fun experience we had to walk across the border after passing through customs and meet our vehicles on the other side. There is a real sense of entering another country by arriving on foot that it simply not the saem as landing in a modern airport!

Chris noted that due to the time for customs to inspect the gear that the members spent the night in Zhangmu (Tibet/China) while the gear spent the night in Kodari with one of our vigilant sherpas sleeping under the tarp and on top of all 63 pieces of baggage!

You can see more about the town which has a classic history of wealth gained through scruplous and unscrupulous methods!

http://www.travelchinaguide.com/attraction/tibet/shigatse/zhangmu/zhangmu.htm

September 8, 2007: Heading out to Zhangmu

From Chris In Kathmandu

Everyone and their bags have arrived safely and in one piece in KTM and we are ready to go! The team all went out for dinner to the Rum Doodle (see pic below) to talk a little shop and unwind a little before heading into Tibet on the 9th.

Jacob and I have been in KTM a little too long and we are both feeling the effects of life in the big city. The clean
air of the mountains will be a welcome change from the less than pristine air in Kathmandu. Veronika, Jacob and I will be purchasing the last minute gear required for the trip this afternoon and other than that, we are all raring to go.
We have discovered that there are going to be over 40 teams on the mountain this season. It may be a bit of a
challenge to find peace and quiet in a base camp with nearly 350 people living there. Luckily for me, peace and quiet is the last thing I want. Lets just get there and climb this thing already!

Everyone is very excited and getting along great. It looks like we are having a quick bite tomorrow morning at 5:30 and and then loading up the jeeps and heading into Tibet. We plan on staying in Zhangmu tomorrow then Nyalam and Tingri before reaching BC.

The team out enjoying a night at the famous Rum Doodle restaurant in Thamel

September 4, 2007: Welcome to Kathmandu!

from Jacob in Kathmandu

Chris and I have have been In Kathmandu now for two days enjoying the busy city and the hospitality of the people. Kathmandu is a warm place to explore, even though the last two days when we have had lots of rain.

Yesterday we met our local support staff, and the big boss Nima. Nima had us over to his house for a wonderful lunch. I am very excited to be working with Nima, his many years of supporting big expeditions will get us off to a great start. We also have two great Sherpas who will be with us on the mountain Tsering Sherpa and Ming Tenzing Sherpa. Tsering was with FTA the last two years on Ama Dablam and Ming Sherpa also has many years working on 8000 meter peaks (summited Everest, Shish,and Cho Oyu).

Today we were joined with Lyngve and Surech, both who have been on Field Touring Ama Dablam trips, and will be joined by two more FTA alum, Greg and Veronika, and Meaghan in the next two days. We will have the entire team in Kathmandu by the afternoon of the 7th and then last minute shopping, packing, and paper work with our Chinese visa will take up most of our time. In the free hours of the days ahead we look forward to seeing the sights and eating out in the many restaurants in town. On the 9th we hope to start to drive to Zhangmu. We will take a few rest days in Nylam and Tingri to help acclimatization and if we hope to be in BC around Sept 14th.

Jacob


Nima greeting FTA assistant guide Brad Boehringer at the aiport during the successful 2005 Ama Dablam expedition

 

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