Ama Dablam 2008 Expedition Dispatches

BACKGROUND

SEE THE 2008 TEAM POSTCARD

About FTA and Ama Dablam

Following up our highly successful expeditions from 2005 in which we placed 11of 15 team members on the summit, 2006 with 9 of 12 on top and 2007 with 11 of 15 in october and november and and we are excited to return again this fall. The October trip will be led by Ama Dablam Summiteer Sean James and the November trip by 2-time summiteer Chris Symiec. Both trips will include the same sherpa staff (see below) which has worked so hard for our team each year. In addition we have Chris Symiec once again leading the October trek to the Everest Base camp. All in all we will have a superb leadership structure and will be employing the same tactics which enabled us to place so many members on the top.

We welcome you to follow our 2008 team as they make their way though the valleys to Namche and on to base camp and then tackle the techincal challenges of the southwest ridge. If you would like to receive updates during the expedition please email to stu@fieldtouring.com and let us know!

Ama Dablam BC
Kathmandu time

Sean James(UK), October Leader

Sean James
Since joining the Field Touring Team, Sean has been to Broak Peak, Spantik, Ama Dablam, Lobuche, and Aconcagua. He has also led trips in Africa and Ecuador.

In the UK he is a qualifed Mountain Instructor and Rock Climbing Coach and also a Kayak & Canoe Senior Instructor.

Living in Sheffield he splits his time between being a Financial Advisor, lecturing at Sheffield Hallam Univeristy in Adventure Sports and leading climbing and trekking expeditions throughout the world including, South America, The Himalaya and Africa.

Sean will be leading the Tharpu Chuli trip just prior to Ama Dablam so let us knwo if you are interested!

Chris Szymiec (Canada), October Trek leader and November Ama Dablam Leader

Chris will join our climb direct from leading our Spantiik expedition and will accompany Tsering and the November starters after leading our Ama Dablam/Everest Base Camp trek.

Living full time in the Canadian Rockies Chris's typical weekends include quick trips up 50-70° snow and ice climbs and checking out the insides of crevasses! Origiinally from the Alberta, Canada, Chris learned much of his skill in the maritimes with ocean waves splashing at his feet while climbing fleeting ice flows. Not much fear here! Chris is a qualified Wilderness First Responder has just completed his EMT certification.

Dale Cottam (USA), November Assistant Guide

Dale Cottam has been climbing since he was 5 years old. His father was a climber, and Dale is following in his footsteps and going farther. Dale has climbed throughout the United States and in Mexico, Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, and Pakistan, where he reached 6,800 meters (22,400 ft) on Spantik.

In addition to his passion for climbing itself, Dale enjoys climbing literature. His favorite books include The White Spider and The American Ascent of K2. When he is not climbing,

Dale works as attorney in the energy and utilities area. Dale also enjoys digital photography and spending time with his wife of 19 years and his six children.

The image at left is Dale on the summit of the Grand Teton on 23 June, 2008.

Josh Kass (Canada), October & November Assistant Guide

"I have been climbing now for almost sixteen years, starting on outdoor rock and competing for a couple of years on the indoor gym circit. My first summit came at age 15 and I climbed in the Coast Mountains and Squamish, B.C. as I grew up.

I have skiied from the age of 4 and hold my level 2 Canadian Ski Instructor Certificate, C.S.I.A. 2 and as a teen I ski raced for 6 years. I have been rock, alpine and ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies for about 5 years now, summiting some of the largest mountains and most classic routes in the range.

I am certified in high angle rope rescue, hold a first aid certificate and work as a plumber and pipefitter. I'll turn 32 on Oct. 22. ya! birthday at Ama Dablam BC!

The dog in my picture is my Giant Alaskan Malamute Ahnah aka The Snooky Doo !"

Wei Cui, October Climber

Antinon Calzarossa (France), October Climber

Neal Davis (UK), November Climber

Damian Wilkinson (UK), November Climber

Noel Bampton, (Australia), November Climber

James Bingham , (UK), November Climber

Rai "Tsering" Parsu Ram (Nepal), Climbing Sherpa

Date & place of Birth. Rakha 4 Kotang 1969
Training: Basic and advance course of Mountaineering from Manang Mountaineering Institute
Mountaineering Back Ground:
Mount Makalu up to Camp three
Mount Sisapangma up to 8000 meter
Mount Cho Oyu up to 7500 meter
Mount Amadablam Summit (4 times)
Trekking Peak: Mera Peak (15 time summit) Island Peak (15 time summit) Lobuje Peak (10 time summit)

There is no more hard working and reliable sherpa on the Ama Dablam. Helping to set the high camps early and support members delayed by illness or slow acclimation, Tsering is a revered and crucial member of our team. Competent and strong as a climber and gentle and sincere by nature he is a pleasure to spend a month with!

Lhakpa Sherpa (Nepal), Climbing Sherpa

Date & place of Birth: Kurima, Solu Khumbu 1972
Training: Basic and advance course of Mountaineering from HIM Darjeeling
Mountaineering Back ground:
Mt. Ama Dablam Summit (7 times)
Trekking Peak: Mera Peak (20 time summit) Island Peak (20 Time summit) Lobuje Peak (15 time)

Lhakpa summited along with 16 members over the last three years and has proven a phenomenally strong and dependable guide on Ama Dablam. Just prior to the 2006 Ama Dablam Climb Lhaka and an all-star nepali team completed an 800m ice climb that first ascensionist Catherine Desteville once claimed would never be repeated.Our members in 2006 were treated to a viewing of the climb's video in namche and our respect for Lhakpa was redoubled!

Ratna Man Gurung (Nepal), Base Camp Cook

Date & place of Birth: Barpkak, Gorkha 1969
Training: Basic and advance course of cooking
Mountaineering Back Ground: Ramduk Peak (Summit)

W orking as cooking since 1995, Ratna has been on more than 30 Expeditions and has been our base camp cook in both 2005, 2006 and and 2007 will be our BC cook for Cho Oyu for a second time in September before joining us in Kathmandu.

No expedition would succede without a great cook and base camp manager and Ratna manages our health and home with a friendly and caring touch. He also has a wicked sense of humour so be forewarned!

Siddhi Bahadur Tamang (Nepal), Climbing Sherpa

This will be Siddhi's 5th trip with FTA and we could not be more excited to have him along. He is making the transition from kitchen boy and high altitude porter to sherpa and has now served as a sherpa on Ama Dablam, Island Peak and Cho Oyu.

He is also the resident nepali language instructor and takes great pride in helping our members to gain facility in nepali and during snowy days at BC this activity can be a life saver when the cards are worn and the batteries low! Inquisitive, funnny and capable there is little Siddhi will not accomplish if he wishes. We have supported him by helping him to take a mountaineering course this past summer and we hope to keep nurturing his goal of becoming a full-time Sherpa guide.

DISPATCHES

quick link: Oct 18 24 26 30 Nov 3 8 10 13 16 20 23 24 Dec 1

Dec 1, Himalayan Trilogy Complete with Lobuche Summits!

from stu in the us office
Dale has written into let us know that everyone is back in Kathmandu following a great finish to the trip with 5 members topping out on Lobuche (central summit). No resting on their laurels for this team as many of them must now negotiate getting home through (or around!) Thailand and Bankok. Our amazing US travel agent Dana Welch (dana@travelsociety.com) has already rerouted Dale and he will be able to get on home on schedule through Delhi. We hope that all of our members will have such good luck!
Below is his note from Namche on the 29th a few days before the team all landed safely in Kathmandu
From Dale in Namche on the 29th November
Dear Friends and Famil,

At approximately 7:30 a.m. Nepali time on Friday, November 28, 2008, James Bingham, Neil Davis, Dale Cottam, Jangbu Sherpa, and Lhakpa Sherpa reached the false summit of Lobuche. We continued on to reach the central summit one hour later by traversing along the exposed, knife edged ridge with care being taken to fix rope where necessary. Once on the central summit at over 6,000 meters, Lhakpa Sherpa reconnoitered the route on beyond to the farthest, true summit. Unfortunately, the snow conditions were unstable and unprotectable, and we had to be content with the central summit.

Rarely do climbing teams reach the central summit (in fact, Lhakpa Sherpa has climbed Lobuche 16 times and never reached it before). All team members are safe and resting in Namche Bazar. The climb was absolutely brilliant. Not a cloud in the sky, not a breath of wind. Sun beaming down on sparkling neve, crampons biting into the steep but inviting slope, the summit arriving all too soon. It was one of those brief periods of time, about which you can fairly say, "This was one of the best days of my life!" -

Here is a picture of me nearing the false summit of Lobuche. You can see how steep the slopes are below me. Glad I didn't fall. (I'll photoshop out Jangbu Sherpa's thumb later)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/19395007@N00/3068351570/

Here is a picture of me on the false summit of Lobuche. Right behind me you can see the gnarly looking central summit, which we did climb that day. You can see our footprints in the snow leading up to it.
(I took this picture after returning to the false summit from the central summit).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/19395007@N00/3068351582/

Here is a picture of me on the central summit of Lobuche. Mt. Everest is on the extreme right-hand side of the image.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/19395007@N00/3068351574/

--
Dale W. Cottam
Nov 24, Summit and route update from Chris

from stu in the us office
Chris has sent in some new dispatches and some great images and i hope you enjoy looking throught them!
Dispatch #1 on the 24th from Chris in BC on the summit run
Zangbu Sherpa, Damian, Neal, James, Chris & Lahkpa Sherpa summited 6856m Ama Dablam at approximately 12 noon on November 23. Everyone is now back at base camp feeling exhausted but elated at the success of our big climb.
The route was tough this year. High winds, bullet proof ice and cold temps made for an exciting push from the new camp 3. (see 'New route on Ama?' post) After acclimatizing on Island Peak, we rested for a day in BC. We then moved to c1 and slept. Next we carried some gear to c2 and descended back to c2. Then up to c3 and to the summit the next day and back to c3. Yesterday we descended to base and here we are.
I have to mention once again how important and necessary the help of our local Sherpa staff was. Tsering, Pasang, Zangbu & Lahkpa worked so hard and without them, the climb would have been a totally different story. I'd love to hear more praise for these guys and girls. These unsung heroes always seem to get the generic "...and Sherpa" mention. Also, Nima Sherpa, from Su Swagatam trek, our local operator who runs our local logistics and so so much more. Hats off to anyone who climbs without Sherpa support on these big hills. Very proud indeed.
Anyway, Neal, Dale, Damian, Noel & James are headed over to climb Lobuche in a couple of days with Lahkpa & Zangbu in the lead. My seemingly endless drive seems to have ended. And, along with a few frozen digits, I am in desperate need of some rest below 4000m. Nothing serious, just a sign that after 6 months on expedition, it's time for some, pardon the pun, down time.
Chris from Ama Dablam base camp. --
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 11/24/2008 12:48:00 AM

James Bingham rounding the dablam in blistering winds - image by Chris Szymiec/field touring alpine

Dispatch #2 on the 24th from Chris in BC on the new route

Some have been calling it a new route. Some more accurately a variation to the standard SW ridge on Ama Dablam. Personally, after only being up there three years in a row and far from an expert, I believe the route below the Dablam is just inching it's way to the right every year.

The Dablam is no doubt getting smaller and with that, the face below it is becoming more scoured. Far more rock and hard ice are now exposed but the line is essentially the same. I've never seen such a mess of old, older and ancient lines before. The photo [see below] hardly does it justice.

In the future I foresee more of the same. It will take a strong collaboration between teams to push a line around the Dablam. Hats off to to boys who did it this year. Very strong climbing indeed.

With all that said. The SW ridge on Ama Dablam is about as classic as a route can be. The variation of climbing. Rock, ice, snow and mixed; combined with the mental exposure on one of the worlds most beautiful peaks makes Ama Dablam a must climb. All of the worlds peaks are are slowly falling apart, that's why they are so beautiful. The question is: How do we get up to their top's and back down safely? Care, teamwork, skill and most of all, a small ego. Maybe walking before one runs?

Chris
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 11/24/2008 12:56:00 AM

Approcahing the Dablam on the newly scoured ice slopes - image by Chris Szymiec/field touring alpine

A serene BC scene by Chris Szymiec on 24 Nov, 2008 as the expedition comes to a close.

Nov 23, SUMMITS for the Nov Group and all safely back in BC!!

From stu in the US office
A lot of action over the last few days and I am happy to report that our Nov team placed 6 members on the summit and that all of entire team is back safely in BC. After a rest day they are planning to head over for a quick run up Lobuche and a chance to complete an uncommon Himalayan Trilogy of Island Peak, Ama Dablam and Lobuche.
I spoke with Chris (at BC) just a few hours ago and he said that everyone is in BC with fingers and toes and enjoying a summit cake made by Ratna. He is planning to drop us a big dispatch with images tomorrow so come back soon to see how the new route looks like above C3. Can;t wait myself! Chris said it was a lot of blue ice and very exciting and demanding. All of us back home congratulate the team on a safe and successful summit and wish them a well earned rest day!
The official list of summiteers is Xangbu, Damian, Neal, James, Chris and Lhakpa. This is the thrird for Chris and I have
Dale sent a few notes during the summit push from an internet cafe in Dingboche and i have copied them in below.
Dispatch at 10:30am
Dale Cottam reports that the FTA Ama Dablam team is spread out but doing well. Damian, Neil, and Xangbu Sherpa are high on Ama Dablam pursuing the summit today in clear but windy skies. Chris and James are below them, but continuing on for the time being. Yesterday, Isabel said goodbye to the rest of the team and is now on her trek. Noel is hiking about base camp and being well-taken care of by Ratna and Tsering. Dale is resting in the village of Dingboche below the slopes of Ama Dablam, conserving energy for the upcoming attempt on Lobuche. Dale reports that one of the best days of his life was spent climbing from camp I to II on the southwest ridge of Ama Dablam, where the quality of rock, exposure, views, and challenges were more than he has experienced in over 15 years of high altitude climbing. The Ama team will hopefully be reunited in base camp tomorrow for celebrations, rest, and relaxation.
and a bit later at 1:30:
At 1:30 p.m. Nepali time on Saturday, November 22, Chris radioed from the summit of Ama Dablam to report that Xangbu, then Damian, then Neil, then James, then Chris, then Lakpa each summited Ama Dablam. Chris will radio again at 4 p.m. Currently, they are all descending the mountain. I expect to meet them in base camp tomorrow afternoon.
I will be out of email contact for the next several days, so don't worry if you don't hear from me for possibly a week.

Best,
--
Dale W. Cottam

Ratna with our summit cake from 2005...always a welcome treat!!

Nov 20, Nov Group headed to C2 and summit push is on!

from stu in the US office
I had call late last night from Chris in C1 as they were preparing to head up to C2 and a summit push. The group already mad e load carry to C2 yesterday and Chris said that the route is great shape.Chris also said that Lakpa had gone up and done maintenance and some replacement of the ropes along the route to C3 and that all is set for them to move up from c2 to the camps on the mushrooms ridge which we are still calling C3 for the moment (we have seen other teams call it 2.7) until we find good name. It is quite windy so as they move to C2 and C3 they will be watching the conditions carefully. According to Chris quite a few people have summited over the last few days and as they prepared to head to C2 there were another 10-15 climbers also headed that way so C2 will be a busy town tonight!
As the conditions have beenChris, Neal, James, Damian, Lakpa, Pasang Sherpani and Zangbu Sherpa are in the group headed to the summit while Noel and Dale are both safely down at BC having decided not to join in the summit push. Noel has been struggling to acclimatize above at or above C1 and Dale is saving up energy for Lobuche but both are healthy and well in BC.
Chris is hoping to get a dispatch with pics off in the next 24 hours and hopefully the technology will all comply! Until then i have attached a pic from last year of the route from C2 to C3.
cheers,
stu

Ama Dablam route showing from near C2 (lower left) to the top with the Grey tower pulled out.

Nov 16, Nov Island Peak Summits! Ama Dablam next!

from stu in the US office
Nice notes in from Chris and Dale over the weekend and i have had a chance to talk to Chris at BC and everyone is safe and sounds and doing well. The group had a great time on Island Peak and are ready for Ama Dablam. I did not get the full summit list for Island but know that all but one member who attempted it topped out. The one non-summiter was just a short distance from the true top so sounds like a great success overall. Chris said that island was its usual crazy self with lots of other teams and that one of these other teams began to take down a rope that someone was still rapelling down. Thanks to Chris, Dale and Lhakpa they kept the route safe for our crew!
from lead guide Chris Szymiec
The November Ama Dablam team summited Island Peak yesterday morning at about 8am. Everyone is feeling great and we are now headed for Ama Dablam base camp. Island Peak was a very busy place yesterday and despite a lot of egos, inexperienced climbers and territorial sherpas, we managed to stay focused and have an amazing day in the hills. Leave the egos at home people, have fun and play safe. And, for future reference, when you decide to take down a fixed line, please be sure no one is rapping on it!!!

We are now acclimitized and hope to make a swift and safe summit push after a day or so of rest. We have camps 1 & 2 established and will be also setting a camp 3 in a safer spot lower on the mushroom ridge. I likely wont be able to write again until we are back at BC so please stay tuned.
Chris from Dingboche.
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 11/15/2008 09:48:00 PM

photo: Dale Cottam approaching the summit of Island Peak 6186M (Chris Szymiec)
This note from asssitant guide Dale Cottam
Dear Friends and Family: At 8:32 a.m. local Nepali time on Saturday, November 15, I stepped onto the 20,305 foot summit of Island Peak where I joined 4 of my team mates. Island Peak is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Himalayan mountain range.
Here is a photo of Island Peak: http://www.flickr.com/photos/19395007@N00/3033470013/
Here is a picture of me on the summit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/19395007@N00/3033470009/

The rock wall in the background is the south face of Lhotse, the 4th highest mountain in the world. I was so close I felt I could touch it. Today I am in the village of Dingboche, and will leave tomorrow for Ama Dablam base camp.
Best, -- Dale W. Cottam
Nov 13, Nov Group headed to Island Peak, Oct recovery complete

from stu in the us office
I have received a few notes from the November team in Dingboche as they make their way to Island Peak and Chris reports that all is well. Dale has also uploaded to his flikr account and sent this note:
--
Here is the FTA Ama Dablam expedition climbing team proudly displaying the Boys & Girls Club flag at base camp. http://www.flickr.com/photos/19395007@N00/3024199791
Dale W. Cottam
---
We are hopeful for more news from the Nov team on Island in the days ahead and will post it as we have it.

We can also report that a team of 4 sherpas successfully were able to recover Wei Cui's body from the slopes below the Grey Tower. Hi body was then flown to Kthamndu despite a few weather delays along the way. A service in Swayambunath is under way as i write this and our thoughts are with his family members as they gather for this somber occasion.
I have not had a chance to speak to anyone involved in the recovery and at this time we have no further information about the potential cause for Wei's fall. There have been many reports on the internet about the accident and to this point they are all based on conjecture. There are many potential causes of falls during rapelling from equipment problems to climber errors that can be made in good weather on local crags. When we add the elements of high altitdue climbing the possibilities expand even more. We hope to find a definitive answer or even a narrowing of possibilities.
We would like to say thank you to the sherpas who brought Wei'd body from the slopes back to Ama Dablam BC: Lakpa Sherpa, Pha Nuru Sherpa, Phu Nuru Sherpa and Janbhu Sherpa. This was very difficult and demanding work and we are thanksful to them. Our agent Nima T Sherpa has been coordinating from Kathmandu and been a wonderful support to Wei's family arranging all manner of things including the recovery operation, cremation and buddhist services and coordinating with the Chinese embassy for all of the official matters. We would also like to thank Keith and the crew at Global Rescue for helping to coordinate the recovery. They have been very responsive to our situation and needs and helped to make the recovery go as smoothly as possible.

November 10, Nov Group in Ama Dablam BC

from Chris at BC

Hello from Ama Dablam Base camp.

The November FTA Ama Dablam team arrived at base camp this afternoon. We plan on spending tomorrow packing for our acclimatization trip to Island Peak and sharing some skills on the fixed rope course I've set up.

Three Polish climbers summited today and according to their Sherpa, the AD route is in great shape. There are only a few small teams here right now and base camp is more beautiful than ever.
Everyone is healthy and happy. Damian, Neil, Noel, Isabel, Dale, James and I are all excited for the fantastic days to come.

Stay tuned...
Chris from Ama base camp 4550M
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 11/10/2008 08:25:00 AM

FTA Ama Dablam November Team in Bc on the 10th Nov.

November 9, Nov Group headed to Ama Dablam BC, Oct group update

from Stu in US Office

Namche Bazaar

Our November team has left Namche and are making their way to Ama Dablam BC over the next few days. No doubt as they head to the higher peaks they are ever more aware of the serious nature of the climbs they have ahead and we wish them safe passage.
After resting there and reveiwing gear and skills at BC they will begin with Island Peak and we look forward to news of their warmup climb before they begin in earnest on Ama Dablam
Our October Ama team is now back in Kathmandu and in ok spirits and looking foward to some peaceful time now for rest and reflection.
This note in from Chris last night from Namche
The November team is headed for Ama Dablam base camp and everyone is doing well. We will first go to Ama base camp then on to Island Peak once again (my 4th trip there) for an acclimatization climb.
We are having some technical difficulties with our COM gear but i hope to iron this out in the days to come. I will do my very best to keep all interested parties up to date in a timely and accurate manner.
We have a excellent team and we are all getting along great. I have a good feeling about this group. It's just one of those things. A bond between strangers that forms in times of challenge and adversity. Working together to build a team of brothers and sisters who will be there for each other on the hill and beyond. These bonds last forever and for some, the friendships formed in these high and dangerous places are some of the most steadfast and lasting of all.
Climb on!
Chris from Namche.
-- Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches at 11/08/2008 06:53:00 PM
November 8, October Group returns to Kathmandu with sad news

from Stu in US Office

The October team has reutrned to Kathmandu and we have sad news to report from their trip.
We have been holding the news until the family could all be notified and make some important decisions and appreciate that other people have not reported the news until the family was ready.
After summiting on the 4th of November, FTA team member Wei Cui fell while rappelling down the Grey Tower and was fatally injured during the fall. After falling from approximately 6300m he came to rest near 5800m on the south facing slopes below the tower. An attempt to bring his body down to BC will be made in a few days with the plan to then be helicopter lifted to Kathmandu where his family awaits him. The cause of his fall is unkown at this time and we are hopeful to understand what occured after the recovery.
The remaining team members (trekkers, climbers and sherpas) are all safe and sound back in Kathmandu.
We share our deepest sympathies with Wei's family and friends and know that there are no words that will dimish your sadness. Instead I offer an image of the section Wei was descending so you know that he was in one of the most beautiful places our planet offers and filled with the contentment of having reached the top of Ama Dablam.
stu

In 2006 climbing just above the Grey Tower with tents nestled in the snow at C2 and C1 visible at the left end of the ridge.

November 3, Route Update - open to the top!

from Stu in the US Office

At least three other teams have had summit success in the past few days and we are hopeful for our team to be able to follow suit shortly.

The route follows the extreme right of the climb and sounds to involve a longer and more challenging stretch of icy slopes than in the past. The good news is that the other teams have summited from both C2 and from camps along the mushroom ridge so our teams should have the options available to them based on how strong they feel and weather conditions.

More news as we have it!

October 30, In Ama Dablam BC

The final section of rope from camp 3 to the summit is being fixed in the next couple days and we are
heading up to c1 tomorrow. we have rested at bc and Pangboche and are acclimatised and ready. We will be among the first summits this season and feeling strong.

Today we have practised rope techniques and sorted gear at bc. We already have tents at c1 and c2. Food is great and we are getting special attention from ratna the cook.

sean
Ama Dablam BC, 30 October

October 26, Island Peak Summits!

Sean, Tsering, Mama, Wei, Antonin, Paul Chris summited Island Peak Oct 26 in perfect weather.
After an evening at 5650m high camp Josh became ill and decided to stay back (He is feeling fine now). The rest of the team left at 3 and were on top between 6 and 8am. The team is back in base camp and despite being totally nackered: everyone is feeling fine. The team is now en route to Ama Dablam Base camp.
Word from Ama Dablam has been promising but we wont really know for sure until the team gets onto the route. FTA from Island Peak base camp
--
Posted By Field Touring Alpine to Field Touring Alpine Expedition Dispatches <http://fieldtouring.blogspot.com/2008/10/island-peak-summits.html> at 10/26/2008 10:37:00 PM

Over the past three years we have had 33 members reach the top and we look forward to a great season again next year! We are very thankful for the phenomenal work done (as always!) by our climbing sherpas, Lhakpa and Tsering, our cook Ratna, the BC staff including Siddhi, Pasanag and Utra, and for the unbelievable support we receive in Kathmandu from our ground agent Nima T. Sherpa.

We are also very grateful to EUREKA! for providing us with tents for the expedition which we used with great confidence in the toughest of conditions and locations. The Fifth Season Exo and K2 X-T tents worked phenomenally well and we can't wait get in them again in a few months on Aconcgua, Ecuador and next summer on G2, Broad Peak and K2!

October 24, En Route to Island Peak

Is it just Ama now?
As the team approached Island Peak, we noticed something different about Ama Dablam; the hanging glacier known as the Dablam has lost at least 2/3 of its total mass. The Dablam has been slowly peeling off over the past years but this is different, it's a major change to the character of the mountain Not that I'm one to revel in base camp gossip, but according to retreating teams, the route still isn't open above what's left of camp 3. We shall see and keep you all posted.

On another note, the FTA team has reached Island Peak base camp and after sorting gear, doing a skills check and packing, we will move to high camp and if the wonderful weather holds, we will go for the summit on October 26.

Stay tuned...

Chris from Island Peak BC 5126M

Our first view of Ama Dablam from Kumjung in 2007

October 18, Ama Dablam & Island Peak Expedition reached Namche Bazar

The team reached Namche Bazar last night and everyone is feeling great. We plan to stay here for 2 full days to aid in our acclimitization schedule. Today, we will climb up for some excellent views of Everest, Lhotse and of course the matterhorn of the Himalayas, Ama Dablam.

Josh, Wei, Antonin, Paul, Me (Chris) and Sean are feeling the excellent energy and this amazing place. Everyone is getting very excited.

We are headed up to climb Island Peak 6186M straigh away then Paul will go for a big trek up to everest base Camp. The rest of the team will go directly to Ama Dablam 6856M base camp and commence the main objective of the expedition. The south west ridge of Ama Dablam. The route is quite difficult but with the help of fixed ropes and Sherpa power, the objective becomes much more managable and a truely enjoyable experience.

Climb on!
Chris from Namche Bazar 3200M

Yaks on the highway from namche to base camp!

Looking down onto the C3 camp as we descend from our glorious summit day in 2007!

Returning from the summit in 2007 with a spectacular view just about to head under the dablam itself

View To C2 in 2007 from the Gray Tower

Merv working his way across the slabs between C1 and C2

Nima Sherpa, Su-Swagatam Trek

"life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all" Helen Keller

Approximate 2008 schedule for October group

Oct 17 fly to Lukla
Oct 18 trek to Namche

Summit slopes and C3 from the
mushroom ridge in 2005October 19 rest day namche, walk to Kumjung
October 20 Acclimatization day Namche
Oct 21 to Thyngboche and sleep in Deboche
Oct 22 arrive BC
Oct 23 rest
Oct 24 carry ABC
Oct 25 move to ABC
Oct 26 carry to c1 and return to BC
Oct 27 rest BC
Oct 28 to ABC
Oct 29 to C1
Oct 30 rest C1
Oct 31 carry c2
Nov 1 move C2
Nov 2 move to C3
Nov 3 summit and return to C3
Nov 4 return to C1
Nov 5 return to BC
Nove 6-9 spare days
Nov 10/11 return to Lukla
Nov 12 Fly back to Kathmandu