Ama Dablam 2007 Expedition Dispatches

BACKGROUND

SEE THE 2007 TEAM POSTCARD

About FTA and Ama Dablam

Following up our highly successful expeditions from 2005 in which we placed 11of 15 team members on the summit and 2006 with 9 of 12 on top we are excited to return again this fall. This trip will be led again by Stu Remensnyder and include the same sherpa staff (see below) which worked so hard for our team last year. In addition we have Chris Symiec (guide in training last year) joining us as the trek leader for the Everest Base camp trek which will join our team on the way in. Chris will then be returing to the hill to join the second smaller group with a november start. All in all we will have a superb leadership structure and will be employing the same tactics which enabled us to place so many members on the top.

We welcome you to follow our 2007 team as they make their way though the valleys to Namche and on to base camp and then tackle the techincal challenges of the southwest ridge. If you would like to receive updates during the expedition please email to stu@fieldtouring.com and let us know!

Ama Dablam BC
Kathmandu time

Stu Remensnyder (USA), Leader SUMMIT

Stu led our successful 2005 and 2006 trips to Ama Dablam and returns for an encore this fall. During more than 7 trips to Nepal and Tibet Stu has climbed Lobuche E., Mera Peak, Tarpu Chuli and Ama Dablam, crossed the Mingbo-La and trekked to the Annapurna Sanctuary, around the Annapurna Circuit, to Gokyo, to Langtang, to Everest Base Camp (Tibet) and around the sacred Mt Kailash.

Stu has also led our climbs on Aconcagua's False Polish (2003, 2005), Aconcagua's Polish Glacier (2004) and was deputy leader on Broad Peak (2003). He brings with him a wealth of experience in more than 15 years of climbing in the Himalayas, the Karakoram, the Andes, the Alps, Canadian Rockies and US North Cascades and Tetons. Stu is also a Wilderness EMT and qualified instructor for SOLO Wilderness Medicine and will be teaching a WFR course during the trip to interested members.

Chris Szymiec (Canada), Trek leader and Guide SUMMIT

Chris will join our climb direct from assisting on our Spantiik and Cho Oyu expeditions and will accompany Tsering and the November starters after leading our Ama Dablam/Everest Base Camp trek. Chris spent much of the summer working for Outward Bound Canada before guiding and summiting Spantik in August

Living full time in the Canadian Rockies Chris's typical weekends include quick trips up 50-70° snow and ice climbs and checking out the insides of crevasses! Origiinally from the Alberta, Canada, Chris learned much of his skill in the maritimes with ocean waves splashing at his feet while climbing fleeting ice flows. Not much fear here! Chris is a qualified Wilderness First Responder and working towards his EMT certification.

Ben Kane (Australia), Climber and Guide-in-training SUMMIT

Ben studied Popular Music at the Queensland Conservatorium and since finishing has taken a more physical approach to his recreation, spending extensive time trekking throughout Australia, South America and New Zealand. He has completed a mountaineering course in Australia, climbed in New Zealand and is participating in an advanced mountaineering and ice climbing course in August 2007.
When not planning his next trip overseas, Ben can be found spending his time surfing, scuba diving, indoor climbing, hiking and playing indoor cricket.

Mark Allen (USA), Assistant Guide SUMMIT

Mark is a Washington native and has been climbing since 1991 and guiding since 2001. He is currently is working towards AMGA certification. Domestically his guiding experience includes extensive Alpine, Ice, Rock and Ski trips in the Cascades and Sierras with additional experience in the Alaska Range; Coast Range of Canada; Red Rocks, NV; Joshua Tree, CA; the Tetons, New Zealand, and Patagonia. Internationally, Mark has led successful expeditions to Aconcagua, Argentina; Denali Alaska; Patagonia; and China. Mark's academic background is in geology with an emphasis on mountain building processes. In the off season, Mark works as a professional ski patroller and explores the strange undiscovered corners of his back yard - the North Cascades. Mark speaks travelers German, Spanish, and Chinese.

Meaghan Loughlin (USA), Assistant Guide SUMMIT

Meaghan Loughlin grew up climbing and hiking in Portland, Oregon and in the Central Cascades. During university she ventured to Montana, Patagonia, and Peru and landed in the Alaska Range to finish her degree from Alaska Pacific University in Outdoor Studies.

She completed her senior thesis by writing a logistical manual on climbing Aconcagua and high altitude training. Domestically her technical ice, rock, and alpine climbing has taken Meaghan to Alaska, Canada, Montana, Washington, Oregon, Wyoming, Colorado, and Arizona. She has participated in expeditions to Patagonia, Peru, Africa, Alaska, and Argentina.

Meaghan's guiding experience started last summer as an assistant guide on Denali working for Mountain Trip and she also assisted a 9-day trip to the Eldridge in the Alaska Range for North Cascade Mountain Guides. Currently she is working part-time in the North Cascades for Mountain Madness and full time for Alpine Ascents International.
Meaghan joins the team after 45 days in Alaska ski mountaineering in Valdez , a 10 day personal trip completing the Upper West Rib on Denali and as a guide-in-training on our 2007 Cho Oyu expedition.

Jay Chow(USA), Climber SUMMIT

.Growing up on the East coast in the States, Jay spent his youth climbing trees in the backyard and backpacking in the Appalachian mountains, but discovered real climbing and mountains after entering college and spending a summer in Colorado. After graduating, Jay moved west to California to continue climbing.

Jay enjoys trad, alpine & ice climbing & has enjoyed adventures out in the Rockies, Sierras, Cascades, Tetons & Sawtooth ranges in the States and is looking toward climbing adventures abroad.

Jay resides with his wife, Katherine in San Francisco, CA.

Troy Norman (USA), Climber

Troy currently lives outside of Portland Oregon, works as an ER nurse when not playing/traveling, and is a volunteer with Portland Mountain Rescue.

Troy writes "Hobbies: whitewater kayaking/rafting, kite-boarding, and chasing my 18mo old son, Kai. This is my first trip to Nepal and I am very excited that my wife Yana (trekking to EBC is able to join in on this experience with me. We look forward to being with friends and making new ones in such an awesome place!"

Troy has been climbing for 10 years at various disciplines. Most of his climbing has been trad, big wall, and alpine routes in the USA. He has also climbed in South America, Europe, and Canada. Major US peaks include: Hood, Rainer, Baker, Adams, Shasta, Whitney and numerous others in the Sierra. Out of the country Tryo has been on Cotopaxi, Iliniza Sur, Orizaba,The Matterhorn, and various peaks in the Bugaboos.

Steve Rollins (USA), Climber

Ashley Turner (Australia), Climber SUMMIT

Age: 41 years old
Live: Sydney Australia
Climbing: I have climbed the Grand Teton (August 1999) although missed the summit due to a snow storm. In April 03 I completed my Technical Mountaineering course in NZ and returned there in Dec 04 in an attempt to summit Mt Cook. The weather was bad so I climbed various smaller peaks on the Eastern side of the Alps. I climb in-doors regularly and have a bouldering wall in my shed. I climb ice on Blue Lake (Australia) each year with Merv.
Training: Mountain bike racing is a way of keeping fit for life's activities, I compete within the top 25% of the non-elite class. My last race is on Sept 12th so that I have time to heal if I break anything.
Family: Wife (Jo), two kids 8 and 4.5 years all of whom are great.
Hobbies: Mountain bike racing, camping (with kids etc), climbing, mountaineering and building (almost anything).
Financial support activities: Business Improvement Manager for a large construction material manufacturing company.

Merv Rowland (Australia), Climber

Stuart McElroy (Australia), Climber SUMMIT

.For as long as I‚ve been climbing I've always thought that Ama Dablam was a great looking peak but I suppose the idea for me to actually climb it came after seeing it in the flesh whilst trekking in the Khumbu back in'98. I'd already done a few trips to the Southern Alps in NZ for mountaineering by this stage, but at the time thought that it would be a great 'somethin' to reserve for when I got older - there were just far too many other things to get done whilst being young and strong! Almost ten years on and the winds of ambition have now swung towards Ama Dablam and I‚m really excited by the idea of potentially knocking another thing off the ever expanding To Do List!

My climbing background has been over 20 years in the making with personal highlights being soloing (and surviving!) on the grit of the Peak District, clipping bolts in France, topping out in the Dolomites, swapping leads on El Cap, dodging avalanches and filth weather in the Mt Cook and Aspiring National parks, passing a thousand trad routes in Australia and meeting some great people along the way. I also love skiing, bushwalking (hiking, trekking, trail walking, tramping or whatever depending upon the location!), travelling and surfing. In my parallel life I‚ve studied geology and hydrogeology and try to earn 'karma point' by working as an environmental scientist on contaminated sites.

Noel Bampton (Australia), Climber

Ernie Reibeling (South Africa), Climber SUMMIT

Scott Kress (Canada) Climber - November teamIsland Peak SUMMIT

I have been climbing for around 20 years. I started in Thunder Bay,
Ontario when I went to University. Thunder Bay offered many great undeveloped areas for rock and tons of ice. I then started to venture to other rock climbing destinations around Canada and the US. I have climbed all over Ontario and Quebec as well as The Needles, Mount Rushmore, Devils Tower, Joshua Tree, Squamish, Bugaboos, Zion and others.
I used to lead around the 5.10-5.11 area, but do not have as much time to get out these days. I have also done several multi-day big wall routes. Ice in Southern Ontario is difficult to find, but I do manage a little each year. I have led Grade 5, but 3 or 4 would likely be more comfortable these days. I have done a fair bit of mountaineering over the years including Ixta and Orizaba in Mexico, Illiniza, and Cotopaxi in Ecuador, Mount Rainier, Aconcagua, Mount Logan, Denali, Cho Oyu, Mt. Blanc, The Matterhorn and a few others in the Canadian Rockies. I have only been on one guided trip (Aconcagua) and have preferred to climb independently with friends. I have done some guiding and been a professional rock and ice climbing instructor. I am also an Outward Bound Instructor and have led trips in Canada, the US and Mexico (canoeing, rafting, hiking and mountaineering). I am looking forward to the challenges that Ama Dablam will present and to getting on a large mountain route once again.
On a personal note, I am married to Susan and have two children; Amy 7 and Colin 3. I live in Oakville, Ontario (close to Toronto). I run a corporate training business specializing in team development and leadership training.

Angus Murray (Canada), Climber November Team SUMMIT (Island Peak & Ama Dablam)

Linda Heuman (USA), Assistant Trek Leader, Island Peak Climber

Jennifer Rollins (USA), Trekker & Island Peak Climber

Yana Norman USA), Trekker

I have been fascinated with Everest and the Himalaya since I was a child. It is a dream come true to visit the region and see it with my own eyes. I am very priveledged and excited to accompany my husband Troy Norman in Nepal, and look forward to doing something greater than I've ever done.

My experience in the mountains includes hiking in the Pacific Northwest, Bulgaria and the Swiss Alps. I enjoy good music, good company, authenticity in everything and an open mind. I look forward to pushing my own limits and putting things in perspective!

Trish Braiden (Australia), Trekker & Tibet tour

Narelle Cummins (Australia), Trekker & Tibet tour

Mark Cummins (Australia), Trekker

Matt Semens (Canada), Trekker & Island Peak

.For as long as i can remember i have been interested in traveling to the Himalayans and now its a dream come true. I spend most of my summer weekends in Ontario camping, portaging, mountain biking, playing golf and most recently climbing. In the winter months playing hockey and skiing takes up most of my time. I studied mechanical engineering and now work for a mechanical contractor in Burlington. I'm new to the climbing/mountaineering scene and im looking to expand my knowledge and experience.

John Lindgren (Australia), Trekker

Jim MacDonald (Canada), Trekker & Island Peak climber

Jen McDougall (Canada), Trekker and Tibet tour

Rai "Tsering" Parsu Ram (Nepal), Climbing Sherpa SUMMIT

Date & place of Birth. Rakha 4 Kotang 1969
Training: Basic and advance course of Mountaineering from Manang Mountaineering Institute
Mountaineering Back Ground:
Mount Makalu up to Camp three
Mount Sisapangma up to 8000 meter
Mount Amadablam Summit (3 times)
Trekking Peak: Mera Peak (15 time summit) Island Peak (15 time summit) Lobuje Peak (10 time summit)

There is no more hard working and reliable sherpa on the Ama Dablam. Helping to set the high camps early and support members delayed by illness or slow acclimation, Tsering is a revered and crucial member of our team. Competent and strong as a climber and gentle and sincere by nature he is a pleasure to spend a month with!

Lhakpa Sherpa (Nepal), Climbing Sherpa SUMMIT

Date & place of Birth: Kurima, Solu Khumbu 1972
Training: Basic and advance course of Mountaineering from HIM Darjeeling
Mountaineering Back ground:
Mt. Ama Dablam Summit (4 times)
Trekking Peak: Mera Peak (20 time summit) Island Peak (20 Time summit) Lobuje Peak (15 time)

Lhakpa summited along with 10 members over the last two years and has proven a phenomenally strong and dependable guide on Ama Dablam. Just prior to last years Ama Dablam Climb Lhaka and an all-star nepali team completed an 800mice climb that first ascensionist Catherine Desteville once claimed would never be repeated.Our members in 2006 were treated to a viewing of the climb's video in namche and our respect for Lhakpa was redoubled!

Ratna Man Gurung (Nepal), Base Camp Cook

Date & place of Birth: Barpkak, Gorkha 1969
Training: Basic and advance course of cooking
Mountaineering Back Ground: Ramduk Peak (Summit)

W orking as cooking since 1995, Ratna has been on more than 30 Expeditions and has been our base camp cook in both 2005 and 2006 and will be our BC cook for Cho Oyu in September before joining us in Kathmandu.

No expedition would succede without a great cook and base camp manager and Ratna manages our health and home with a friendly and caring touch. He also has a wicked sense of humour so be forewarned!

Dambar Bahadur Tamang Gurung (Nepal), Base Camp Cook

Date & place of Birth: Barpkak, Gorkha 1969
Family Name: Tamang
Given Name: Dambar Bahadur
Date of Birth: 1978

Dambad has worked as a cook since 2004. He has received training at the Khumjung Hotel and has been working as kitchen assistant and expedition cook. This will be Dambar's second trip in a row with us and we look forward to having him working with our trekking and climbing teams!

Siddhi Bahadur Tamang (Nepal), Climbing Sherpa Island Peak Summit

This will be Siddhi's third trip with FTA and we could not be more excited to have him along. He is making the transition from kitchen boy and high altitude porter to sherpa and was just on our Cho Oyu expedition gaining even more experience.

He is also the resident nepali language instructor and takes great pride in helping our members to gain facility in nepali and during snowy days at BC this activity can be a life saver when the cards are worn and the batteries low! Inquisitive, funnny and capable there is little Siddhi will not accomplish if he wishes. We have supported him by helping him to take a mountaineering course this past summer and we hope to keep nurturing his goal of becoming a full-time Sherpa guide.

DISPATCHES

quick link: september 28 october 16 17 19 22 29 31 November 2 5 7 22 23
November 25, 2007 Heading to Lukla

From Stu in the US office, 6:45am EST

Chris checked in a few minutes ago to update us on the team plans and to let us know that they are all safe and sound in BC enjoying more of Ratna's great food! After breaking down C2 and making their way down to C1 they made the push all the way back to base camp yesterday. The Yaks are scheduled to arrive tomorrow and they hope to fly from Lukla on the 28th back to Kathmandu.

As they have a few extra days now in Kathmandu Ratna has apparently offered to take them on the down hill mountain bike ride from the top of Nagarkot which is described as "an exciting 900m descent by single-track trail". It seems the opportunities for adventure in Nepal hardly cease with the mountains let behind!

November 23, 2007 Second team Summits!!

From Stu in the US office, 5:30am EST

At about 11am local time Chris, Angus and Tsering stepped onto the summit plateau and were treated to a clear view fo the mountains which surround Ama Dablam - Everest, Lhotse, Nupste, Makalu, Pumori, Island Peak and more! We congratulate them all for a great climb!

The phone rang several times during the climb as Chris reported in on the progress of the November team and it was great to hear how well they did in making it from C2 to the top and back in a round trip of 13 hours. Chris said that they left at 2am on a calm clear morning under the light of a full moon and had perfect conditions all the way to the top. They were alone on the mountain all day and enjoyed the climb fully with great conditions and fine weather. They are all tired and happy sitting now in C2 brewing up a final freezedried supper before returning to Ratna's great food at BC.

Over the course of the next few days they will remove all the remaining tents and gear from c2 and c1 and prepare to leave BC on the 25th to head back out towards Lukla. They are scheduled to fly back to Kathmandu from lukla on the 31st but will likely move that up and we will let you know the plans as they unfold.

With the addition of Angus, Chris and Tsering we have now had 13 of the 17 team members of our two trips this autumn reach the top. Over the past three years we have had 33 members reach the top and we look forward to a great season again next year! We are very thankful for the phenomenal work done (as always!) by our climbing sherpas, Lhakpa and Tsering, our cook Ratna, the BC staff including Siddhi, Pasanag and Utra, and for the unbelievable support we receive in Kathmandu from our ground agent Nima T. Sherpa.

We are also very grateful to EUREKA! for providing us with tents for the expedition which we used with great confidence in the toughest of conditions and locations. The Fifth Season Exo and K2 X-T tents worked phenomenally well and we can't wait get in them again in a few months on Aconcgua, Ecuador and next summer on G2, Broad Peak and K2!

November 22, 2007 Second team already topped out on Island and a summit bid on Ama Dablam under way!

From Stu back in the US office, US Thanksgiving Day 8am est

The US office (Stu) is finally back home and after our troubles with Thuraya it is nice to have the easy access of DSL to get our site rolling again. In the next few days i will add a trip report and loads of pics from the trip so stay tuned. I have also added back in some reports that were written but we could not post to the site.

In the meantime you can follow the latest efforts of our smaller November team as they make a push for the top tonight!

I am just off the phone with Chris and have the good news that he and Angus and Tsering are off from C2 for the top in a few hours time. Scott has been fighting a stomach bug since the start of the trip and had to call off his summit bid for now. The successfuly began the trip with a great run up Island Peak and are hoping that the weather will continue to hold for them until they are done with Ama Dablam. While i was in transit back from nepal Scott Kress haas been getting his own technological problems sorted out and has his thoughts up and running at myeverest.com . I am sure you will enjoy his personal thoughts reactions and encourage you all to have a look there.

More news as we have it from Chris, Angus and Tsering!

November 7, 2007 Summit report

From Stu in BC

SUMMITS!
A lot has happened in the last days while we have been high on the hill without our sat phones and solar chargers and we are glad to share with you that everyone is now down safe and sound off of all climbs we have been on.

On the 4th between noon and 2pm stu mac, stu rem, merv, tsering, ben and jay topped out on the summit on an extraordinary clear and warm day and had the summit to themselves for the entire time. on the 5th ash, meaghan, lhakpa, ernie and mark followed suit and summitted between noon and 1 and once again enjoyed a summit to themselves on a second clear and perfect day. these summits came with loads of awesome climing and exciting descending in conditions which made careful attention to technique a must. whenwe are back in town we will put up a full report with pics so stay tuned!
our islabd peak climbers made it to high camp but as they attempted the summit they decided to turn back with the human chain making an unsafe scene. they returned to pangboche today with a good effort made.

Over the next days we will all be making our way to meeting up in Namche and flying back to Kathmandu on the 12th. there have been some delays with bad weather but today saw much clearer weather and we understannd flights are back on schedule again.

W e send our best to everyone and are glad to be heading slowly homeward feeling happy and full of great memories of shared adversity, challenge, success and friendship....not to mention full of ratna's amazing pizza & fried chicken!

more in the days ahead!!
stu from bc

Looking down onto the C3 camp as we descend from our glorious summit day!

November 5, 2007 Summits!

From Dave in the Perth Office

Stu called in this morning to report the following: All climbers are at base camp, 9 of 12 summitted. 4 trekkers are to climb Island peak tomorrow then all will meet at base camp on the 8th.
They'll all go to Lukla together on the 9th and fly out. I guess there have been some delayed flights at Lukla because of crummy weather, hopefully they'll be out on schedule.

Dave

Returning from the summit with a spectacular view just about to head under the dablam itself

November 2, 2007 Moving up to C3

From Stu in C2

This morning jay, stumac, merv, tsering, ben and myself will head up to c3 on a clear blue day and hope to summit on the 3rd. mark, meaghan, and ash will come up to c2 today and hope to top out on the 4th. ernie, steve and lhakpa will move up from c1 tomorrow and hope for the summit on the 5th. troy continues to have troubles with his chest cold and is still hopeful for island peak. noel came down to bc after a final carry only to find an old knee injury act up so badly he decided to rest a few days and tgen begin his hike out. we enjoyed noel's company very much and wish him safe journey.he hopes to catch a flight out to kathmandu on the 3rd.

The trekkers have reached dole and will now split up as trish, mark, narelle, john, linda, jen mcd will head to namche and all but linda on to kathmandu on the 4th. chris, jim,vand matt will head to island peak and karen will head back to bc to await merv!

more news in the days ahead!
cheers
stu

View To C2 from the Gray Tower

October 31, 2007 News From Advanced Base Camp

From Stu in advanced base camp

First and foremost everyone is safe and sound on both the climb and trek. We have been having great difficulty with our Thuraya system and thanks to Tom at explorersweb.com we have an alternative system using contact 3.0 http://www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/fta2/

The climbing sherpas have established camp 2 and most members will be in camp 1 tonight. A few members have had some sickness and are behind the main team.
Noel is at base camp and hoping today to come back to advanced base camp, Troy is in Pangboche and on his way back to base camp today and Ernie will be making a carry to camp 1 today and moving up tomorrow.
At present a group of 4-5 will move to camp 2 on the 1st with intentions to summit on the 3rd. We will see how everyone feels in the morning tomorrow and confirm members in the first wave then.
Our weather continues to be spectacular, the route in good shape and we are looking forward to getting on to the technical part of the climb. a lot of hard work so far and the rewards ahead!
The trekkers meanwhile have made it to Everest base camp and crossed the cho la yesterday. Today they will pull into gokyo for a well deserved two night stay . Yana had a severe headache at gorak shep and she and Jen descended to dingboche to avoid any more high passes.
Yana was able to spend a few nights with troy in pangboche as he was staying low to kick an upper respiratory cold. Jen joined Steve for a night at base camp and accompanied him on a carry to advanced base camp. Yana Troy and Steve when they get off the hill.
Well thats all the news for now and we hope you can keep up to date now with our adventures in the high Himalaya!

Stu

Merv working his way across the slabs between C1 and C2

October 29, 2007 Advanced Base Camp

From Stu in advanced base camp

Stu called yesterday via a patchy sat phone connection to confirm what we all suspected - the PDA and comms system has gone a bit crazy and doesn't want to work at the moment. We can just see the guys cursing and muttering in the mess tent as they spend hours fiddling with a recalcitrant piece of technology whilst surrounded by the beautiful rawness of mother nature!
It was a quick call that kept dropping out, but we do know Stu is at advanced base-camp, while the rest of the climbing team are a little further down the way comfortably ensconced in the green meadow of the main base-camp. Everybody is doing fine and are in good health and spirits.
Chris says there is a trekker (Yana) with headaches. Her and Chris are going to see the doctor in pheriche then chris will send the plan for her to let us know. All other trekkers are well.
We hope to have more detailed information to release shortly

Dave Hancock - Perth

October 22, 2007 Hello from Thyangboche!

From Stu in Thynaboche

Hi from Thyanboche monastery in the heart of the Khumbu. I write on a glorious blue day with Ama Dablam and Everest to my left here at the Thyngboche cyber cafe. We have a majority of members heading up to BC today with a few people taking a rest day at Deboche. Both Jay and Noel came down with a bit of a cold yesterday and were both feeling better but still under the weather this morning and decided to rest for the day before coming up tomorrow. They are joined by Meaghan, Linda, Mark, Jen McD, and Jim who will all enjoy the fine day ambling amid the rhododendron forest and likely taking in a late afternoon meeting of the monks at the monastery. we hope that all of them will arise early tomorrow and join us at BC for a huge lunch! The rest of the members are either still sipping tea in pangbiche or already working their way up the steep incline to our spacious base camp at the base of ama dablam where we are all looking forward to a few easy days before the climb.

We had some wonderful days on the 19th and 20th in Namche exploring the kumjunh, kunde, and thomo areas including the hills, monasteries and bakleries! On the 20th I was treated to a wonderful birthday supper with an enormous cake and some bottles of wine, bars of chocolate, a note from my family members, and a thanks. The day had been spent ascending 4200m Kunde Ri with Noel, Jay, Ash, Merv, Stuart and meeting up with Troy at the everest bakery in Kumjung. Overall it was truly a special day with some wonderful people. Other members and spent the day tromping over to thomo and visiting the monastery and enjoying the sites and sounds of Namche and the Saturday market.
Our trek from Namche to Deboche went quite easily and the members all seem well acclimatized and enjoying the schedule. The second full day out of Namche proved a critical day for a few people feeling under the weather and made the trekking day quite straight forward for all of our members yesterday.
More from BC tomorrow evening and hopefully we will report a full complement of 24 members enjoying a fine sun set at BC.

cheers til then,

stu

October 19, 2007 Hello from Namche!

From Stu in Namche

We have been blessed with perfect weather since we landed at Lukla airport and have been enjoying three days of walking and acclimatizing and everyone has done very well so far. While no one has had any serious maladies we have had a few odd stomach gurgles and mild headaches which are a usual part of any large group trekking to namche. fortunately no one has had anything last more than a short time and everyone has been taking walks and taking part in the activities.

We arrived at the airport in Kathmandu at 6am after an early start and found the process quite orderly in comparison to last year and without major challenges found ourselves all in the terminal enjoying hot coffees and enjoying people watching. After a 2 hour delay due to clouds in Kathmandu we were cleared for takeoff and enjoyed a spectacular flight to Lukla with the mountains largely cloud free. the landing as always came as a wonderful shock to first time arrivals as the near vertical seeming runway suddenly appeared and we had landed before we had any chance to plead with the pilot to avoid hitting it straight on!
After sorting our bags and orienting ourselves to the days trek ahead we took off in to the bustling town of Lukla and took our first steps on the long journey to Everest base camp for half of us and towards to top of Ama Dablam for the other half. A pleasant walk through the lush valley took us an hour past Phakding to our campsite next to the waterfall at Tok Tok where we settled in for the evening and a great dinner put on by Ratna and his crew.

The general consensus was that the sleep that night was the finest most of us had had in weeks if not years and we readied for the demanding climb to Namche that day. For most of it was a day of stops at tea houses and a luxurious lunch by the river that we will look back most fondly on. The 800m rise to Namche involves a long stretch with no discernible relief from the constant incline. Fortunately half way up the clouds cooperated and most of us had a superb first view of Everest looming over the Nuptse/Lhotse wall.

We pulled into our camping site by the Sherpa History Museum and were treated to hot tee and cocoa followed by a fine dinner. After another sleep that could not be beat our members took off for a variety of walks today including simple ambles to the monastery in Namche to the classic Kumjumg Everest Bakery. Nearly everyone got high enough to get a great view of Ama Dablam and Everest not to mention Tawoche, Nupste and Lhotse. The anticipation for the trekkers and climbers was heightened significantly with these objectives no longer a distant dream but now a goal within reach. That we saw numerous orange tents at c3 and climbers on the route is also a great sign that Ama Dablam appears to be in shape for us this year!

When we met for tea and supper tonight it was clear that the day of acclimatizing had left everyone pretty tired and ready for sleep. By 8pm the mess tent was empty and headlamps already being turned off in preparation for a second day of acclimatizing here in the Namche area. at least 4 members are headed off for Thame and the Thame monastery and 9 or more for the kunde ridge for a higher but shorter day. with the second day of acclimatizing we are hopeful that everyone has felt strong at this height and we are ready to move on to Deboche on Sunday.

Thats all for now, we send our love to all of our family and friends and we are thinking of you all.

stu - from Everest Cyber cafe, Namche, Khumbu, Nepal

October 17, 2007 Leaving for Lukla

From Stu in Kathmandu

It is 4:45 am and we are just about to gather for a 5am breakfast and head to the airport! This may seem a late start to the members that made their way to Nagorkot yesterday at 3:30am but most of are finding it plenty early! I can smell the milk tea brewing and bags being dropped by the door and hiopefully in 15 minutes we will have a full entouraage of 24 eager and groggy members ready to go.

We have been haveing a great time in Kathmandu seeing the sites (including baktapur and nagarkot yesterday) and shopping for the trip and the time to get it under way is really upon us. Today we will fly at 6:30am up to Lukla and trek towards namche staying near Phakding and then on the 18th climbing up to Namche where we will drop you all another note.

cheers til namche!

stu

October 16, 2007 Preparing to leave Kathmandu

From Stuart McElroy in Kathmandu

The team have all arrived in country and we met as a group for the first time last night! It was great to meet the people we are going to be spending the next four or so weeks with. There is going to be about 24 of us (12 climbing 12 trekking) so there are plenty of faces and opportunities to mingle. Stu also gave us a good introduction to what the trip is likely to hold, particularly the next few days.

Earlier in the day Stu finalized the peak permit process with a meeting with the 'Ministry' and this morning Elizabeth Hawley dropped by in her blue VW beetle to collect information regarding the climbing teams objective and members. For some of us it was an unexpected suprise to meet 'the foremost authority on climbing in Nepal' !

Weatherwise, well it has been raining on and off for most of the day with the occaisional thunder but hopefully it will clear soon and not cause too much delay to the early morning flights to Lukla. Almost time to get the show on the road!

September 28, 2007 whereabouts uypdate!

Hard to keep track of al of our members just now but at last count we have....

Chris, Tsering and Meaghan moving to C2 on Cho Oyu
Ben on the annnapurna circuit in jomson
Trish and Narelle in Darmsala

And maybe most critical Lhakpa heading into BC already with 1000m or rope to begin fixing the route along with a few sherpas from other teams.

This is an exciting time for all of us a with barely 2 weeks til we all meet in KTM. A number of members will be arriving early and enjoying the sights and sounds of Kathmandu and at least one member has plans for a pre-climb rafting/kayaking trip. Assistant trek leader Linda Heuman will also be in 4 days ealry and is offering opportunities for visits to religious and cultural sights as well as teachings with local llamas. Her first planned event is a talk on the 13th at 10am with Chokyi Nyima Rinpoche after a visit to the Bodhanath Stupa. A nice lunch afterwards overlooking the stupa will top of a fine morning!

Final training runs, final shopping trips and lots of good bye hugs for our loved ones all that remains between now and lift off! A few thoughts for the day from my years at Ourward Bound

"a ship in harbour is safe, but that is not what ships are built for" William Shedd

"to venture causes anxiety, but not to venture is to lose one's self....and to venture in the highest is precisely to become conscious of one's self" Soren Kierkagaard

"the trick is what one emphasizes. We either make ourselves miserable or we make oursleves strong. the amount of work is the same..." Carlos Castaneda

"life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all" Helen Keller

Yaks on the highway from namche to base camp!

September 17, 2007 Gear and food supplies already on the way to Namche!

Making sure that we are ready well ahead of time a great deal of our gear and food has already been flown up to Lukla and is one the way to namche. What is more notable is the personal care and attention Nima takes with our trip. Rather than remaining in the office he makes the trip himself to Lukla to ensure everything goes smoothly. From Nima now back in kathmandu:

"I just flew to Lukla this morning with all the camping gear and food for Amadablam Expedition Team members and Trekking Team members. I sent 46 load of gear on to Namche and stored nearly 15 loads at Lukla."

For the last two years Nima has joined our team on the flight to Lukla and the trek in to Namche and he makes sure that the services meet his high standards. Joined this year again by sherpas Tsering and Lhakpa and head cook Ratna we are a well seasoned team and looking forward to getting to the climb!

We do still have a few spaces available for the october and november climbs and 3 spaces for the trek so let us know!

September 12, 2007 First member already arrived in Kathmandu and bound for Annapurna Circuit!

Our first member to arrive in Kathmandu is Ben Kane and he is going to use the 4 weeks ahead to take a jaunt around the Annapurna circuit and see the sights and sounds of Pakara. We will keep you up to date as he drops us notes and are excited to have the trip under way with his arrival. He was met at the airport by our ground agent and good friend Nima Sherpa and brought to the Hotel Marshyangdi in Thamel and has written to us the following note:

Nima Sherpa, Su-Swagatam Trek"As for my plans, well I met Nima this morning and what can I say? He is a true gentleman, so helpful, kind and obviously very much respected. He helped me buy a sleeping bag and a down parka, so now I'm pretty much all set, save for a few small items that I've yet to realise I've forgotten.
I'll be heading off in a couple of days to do the Annapurna Curcuit, and Nima has given me all the info I'll need for the trek and was quite thorough with me on the acclimatisation schedule. So, I should arrive back in Kathmandu around the 5-6 of October, but I might add a few extra days here and there to soak up the time and possibly arrive closer to the 15th. Nima will send some of my kit out (anything I'm not trekking with) with the rest of the group gear in a few days, so there'll be a bit of spare weight for anyone that is travelling heavily.
Gees, its getting so close. I'm a tad anxious now, I can't imagine how I'll feel when I get my first glimpse of Ama Dablam. Surely will be mind over matter at that point. "

Our first view of Ama Dablam from KumjungI think Ben expresses how all of us feel as we arrive in Kathmandu as we anticipate seeing our objective for the first time. Ama Dablam does live up to its reputation in being an awe inspiring peak as it rises up and dominates the view so so many days. Seeing it for the first time it appears near vertical and makes for weak knees! Only as we near the mountain and being to lcimb it does this sensation diminish and the reasonableness of its cliffs and slopes show themselves.

Just so you can all have a sense of what our climb may look like here is itinerary from our 2005 successful ascent. It was nearly identical in 2006 with the same summit day!

Oct 17 fly to Lukla
Oct 18 trek to Namche

Summit slopes and C3 from the
mushroom ridge in 2005October 19 rest day namche, walk to Kumjung
October 20 Acclimatization day Namche
Oct 21 to Thyngboche and sleep in Deboche
Oct 22 arrive BC
Oct 23 rest
Oct 24 carry ABC
Oct 25 move to ABC
Oct 26 carry to c1 and return to BC
Oct 27 rest BC
Oct 28 to ABC
Oct 29 to C1
Oct 30 rest C1
Oct 31 carry c2
Nov 1 move C2
Nov 2 move to C3
Nov 3 summit and return to C3
Nov 4 return to C1
Nov 5 return to BC
Nove 6-9 spare days
Nov 10/11 return to Lukla
Nov 12 Fly back to Kathmandu

With good luck all members will be within a few days of this. We leave from Lukla on the 12th of November and with luck there will be some spare days for a quick ascent of Island. Last year 4 members attempterd Lobuche with 2 topping out. This year we'll have a go at Island and next spring offer an introductory island peak/Lobuche trip for those looking to venture into the Himalayas and expand their alpine skills. We already have a Tarpu Chuli trip for next spring and autumn and will be adding Mera in as well. Please let us know if any of these trips sparks your fancy!

stu