Aconcagua Polish and False Polish Glacier Climbs 2009 Dispatches

BACKGROUND

About FTA and Aconcagua in 2009

For more than a decade FTA has been running trips to Aconcgua putting on more than 15 programs to date and reaching often a summit success of 90%. We are fielding teams for both the Polish and False Polish Glacier this year and are excited to see a new crop of climbers enjoy the beauty and culture of this trip

We welcome you to follow our team as they make their way up the slopes of the highest peak outside of the himalayas!

Enjoy.

latest news

January 24 - SUMMITS!! First group on Falso Tops Out, More to come!

January 22 - Teams in C2 preparing for summit bids

January 17 - Made it to plaza Argentina BC and all is well!

January 14 - All well and headed to BC in the morning!

January 13 - Both teams are off for the mountains!

CLIMBING TEAM | SPONSORS | DISPATCHES | ACONCAGUA 2009 INFORMATION PAGE

Sean James (UK), Guide for Polish Glacier

Sean joined FTA in 2005 on the Broad Peak Expedition as an assistant leader and returned to the Karakoram in 2006 to lead our Spanitk team. Sean then led FTA expeditions to Aconcgua in 2007, Aconcagua, Tharpu Chuli, Island Peak and Am Dablam in 2008.

Sean brings with him world class expertise in the vertical realm as a 5.14 climber with extensive experience on the north faces of the Alps.

Ben Kane (AUS), Guide for False Polish Glacier

Ben grew up on the golden beaches of northern New South Wales, Australia. A less hostile environment would be hard to find. However, the desire to explore the wild has led him into the more remote and mountainous regions of the world, including Patagonia and the Andes, New Zealand and the Himalaya.

Ben has undertaken training in alpine, expedition and ice climbing techniques, as well as crevasse rescue and avalanche hazard. In 2007 he was a guide-in-training on Ama Dablam, and in January 2008 guided a small party on Aconcagua, summiting both peaks safely and receiving rave reviews from members of the trips. Ben also assisted on Cho Oyu in 2008 reaching 7500m. In the years ahead, Ben will be leading new treks to the Annapurna Sanctuary, and guiding on Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Nepal trekking peaks and Aconcagua.

Ben is a qualified IRATA Rope Access Technician, trained in industrial abseiling techniques and high angle rescue. He is also a qualified Wilderness First Responder and working towards his Wilderness EMT

Chris Szymiec (Canada), Guide for False Polish Glacier SUMMIT

Living full time in the Canadian Rockies Chris's typical weekends include quick trips up 50-70° snow and ice climbs and checking out the insides of crevasses! Originally from the Alberta, Canada, Chris learned much of his skill in the maritimes with ocean waves splashing at his feet while climbing fleeting ice flows. Not much fear here!

Chris has led for FTA on our trips to Gasherbrum II, Spantik, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and Everest BC trek and is roundly held as one of our most thoughtful and dedicated guides. Chris is a qualified Wilderness First Responder has just completed his EMT certification.

Martin Girodo (ARG) , Assistant Guide and HAP

Martin has been assisting and guiding for 7 years for FTA and has a reputation for great dedication to the safety and success of the members. He has been up aconcgua more than 20 times by 3 routes and knows the hill as well as anyone. Trips are often able to end with a visit to his home and a chance to sample local wine, meats and honey from his very own bees!

Bram Wijk (Netherlands), Polish Glacier

Chris Resert (Netherlands), Polish Glacier

Andy Tatum (UK), Polish Glacier

Diane Cunningham (UK), False Polish Glacier

Latifa Mayou (UK), False Polish Glacier

Jason Montanana (UK), False Polish Glacier

David Newell (US), False Polish Glacier

Began hiking and climbing 12 years ago with a trek up Half Dome in Yosemite National Park and enjoy it as much as ever today. In the past 12 years my climbing experience includes mountains in North America, South America, Europe, and Africa.

Jeff Solomon (US), False Polish GlacierSUMMIT

I've been rock climbing since college throughout the mid-west and eastern
parts of the United States. I started mountain climbing about twelve years
ago with a few good friends. We've climbed Mt. Whitney, Mt. Rainer, and Mt.
Elbert in the lower 48 states. In 2000 we started a quest to climb the seven
summits. So far we have climbed Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Denali and Aconcagua.
Unfortunately, I didn't make it to the top of Aconcagua during my initial
attempt, so I'm looking forward to the opportunity to give it a try again.

Scott Gaisford (US), False Polish Glacier

"I live in Denver, Colorado with my youngest son Alex (15). My other son Brent (19) matriculated at UCLA this year. I have a Physics degree, an MBA, and have spent most of my adult life starting one company or another in a variety of fields. Before landing in Colorado, I lived in Norway for a while, preceded by the Bay Area (CA), preceded by growing up in Utah. I play a lot of basketball, though my body has not been cooperating of late. I read a lot, ski when I can, and do my share of recreational hiking. Over the years, I have climbed a number of mountains, but nothing of note. Aconcagua will certainly be a step up . . ."

Jason Scott (Ireland), False Polish Glacier

I'm a Oracle software developer by profession, and work and live in Dublin.
My first taste of altitude came on a trek to Everest base in 2006. Later that
year I summitted Kilimanjaro. My last trip was to Mt Elbrus in 2007.

Grant Ritchie (AUS), False Polish GlacierSUMMIT

Climbs include Mt Cook and Mt Aspiring in New Zealand, Mt Kosciusko in Australia, Mt Kinabalu in Sabah, and Spantik with FTA in 2007.
I have been trekking in the mountains all my life including Everest Base Camp (Kalar Patar) and Machu Picchu

Allan Wickens (NZ), False Polish Glacier

Omar Shaker (UK), False Polish GlacierSUMMIT

DISPATCHES

quick links: Jan 13 14 17 22 24 26

Jan 26, 2009 - Second team denied and all safe back in Mendoza.

from stu in the US US office

First and foremost - our entire tem is now back down safely in town and enjoying eating and resting in the warm and relaxing atmosphere of Mendoza. After a nice rest we should have a full report shortly from our guides and hope to have some pics from the trip!

I have talked with Chris and the trip has been a great one with nearly everyone having a good shot at the top and having come down safely. After resting a day at the Colera camp the second wave of summit attempts was thwarted by extremely strong winds just above Independencia Hut (at approx 6500m/21500ft) and this has been a common experience this year with loads of snow and high winds being the norm. The wave consisted of most of the members of the polish group and Falso groups as they all joined in Colera after the Polish crew decided the route was not in safe conditions fro an attempt. It is a serious and demanding climb and not to be taken lightly if all signs are not positive.

Wine tours, baby beef (see below), lunches under shady trees and thoughts of the next adventure will absorb the days ahead very quickly for our members and we look forward to seeing pics and hearing tales ahead!

cheers,

stu

FTA 2005 member John Nystrom showing off 600grams of "baby beef" at the El Facundo restaurant!

Sunrise looking across the lower half of the Polish Glacier - a treat for all who make it to C2!

Jan 24, 2009 - SUMMITS! First Falso Group Tops Out...More to Come!

from stu in the US US office

Chris dropped us a short note late last night letting us know that the first group on the Falso has already topped out and was safely back in the Colera Camp and today the second group will make an attempt. Summiteers in the first group are:

Chris Szymiec
Omar Shaker
Grant Ritchie
Jeff Solomon

We congratulate all 4 and are very happy for all of them to have joined the "all the 7-summits someday" club! We are particularly happy for Jeff as this is is second time trying Aconcagua and we are glad that his return was a successful one! The summit is also a great redemption for Grant as he has come back from frostbite injury sustained on Spantik to be able to climb big hills again!

In the next group on the Falso Jason Scott, Ben Kane, Allan Wickens and Scott Gaisford are all to make an attempt. As the weather was to get cooler and windier today wew will await word on their situation and share it as soon as we have it.

cheers,

stu

Jan 22, 2009 - Teams in C2 and summit attempts ahead!

from stu in the US US office

Chris has been sending in SMS messages the last 2 days to let us know that all is well and the teams are progressing up the mountain in good fashion and preparing for a summit attempt in the next few days. The Falso group will try to summit from the colera camp located on the shoulder which rejoins the top of the normal route while the Polish glacier team will shoot from C2.

In the days leading up to the push Latifa ended up getting a GI illness which forced her back to Mendoza (by way of a nice chopper flight rather than have her walk out feeling poorly) where she has made a good recovery and is feeling well again. During the ascent to C1 Dave was not acclimatizing well and joined Jason and Diane to descend. Jason and Diane decided to join Latifa back in town rather than leave their good friend alone to her own devices. It is always a hard choice, when one of your companions is not well enough to ascend to decide, whether to go on or join them. They are all safely back in town now and doing fine though disappointed not to have been feeling well enough for a summit bid. The three of them plan to use the remainder of their time for some travel and will rejoin the team for celebrations back in town. Our ground staff at Lanko has done a great job coordinating their return to town we thank them for all their efforts.

Weather reports indicate higher winds and colder temperatures in the next few days so our team will assess the situation each day before making a summit push. See the image below to see what the hill looks like on such days. which are best spent brewing hot drinks and playing cards! Our team is equipped with brand new 4 Eureka K2 XT tents and 2 TNF VE 25s so are as well equipped to sit it out high winds as possible. In 2003 A small crew of us waited out 4 days of such wind and topped out on a still warm day. patience and planning will hopefully pay off for our team in the days ahead!

We'll hope for more news in the next few days!

stu

Seeing the shadow of the mountain (note the small blue bump in the horizon!) you are standing on is treasured moment of all high altitude climbs!

Waiting it out safely in C2 while the summit is ripping wind is a common experience on Aconcagua.

Jan 17, 2009 - Teams in BC and all is well!

from stu in the US US office

Chris called in to let us know that everyone made it safely to BC. Chris said that there are lots of other teams on the hill and that they report afternoon storms nearly every day high on the hill. When they left Piedras in the morning there were enormous cumulus clouds and by the afternoon the sky was cobalt blue. The clearing clouds left the summit covered by a giant lenticular cloud (chris promises great photos when he gets back to MDZ!) which is an ominous sign of high winds our team will hope to avoid on their summit push.

They made a carry to C1`today in lousy weather and were treated to a great dinner at BC when they returned. The team plans to move up on the 18th and we should have word on this shortly!

So far they are right on schedule and we'll hope the weather cooperates with our dates for topping out!

stu

Playing cards at BC - always a good finish to the day!
From our 2004 expedition which placed members on top by the Polish and False Polish climbs.

Sunrise view of the Polish Glacier from base camp on a clear day in 2005

Jan 14, 2009 - Expedition under way!!

from stu in the US US office

Just off the iridium sat phone with Chris and our connection was quite poor but he was able to let me know that they have completed the second day of trekking and are camped at Casa de Piedras (approx 3200m) and all is well! They are looking forward to the early morning river crossing and to arriving at Plaza Argentina BC (approx 4200m) tomorrow afternoon.

I also recieved a nice note from Allan's partner Christina who had accompanied the team to Penitentes and she says that they all were having a great time and she misses their company already! She also noted that during the acclimatizing in Penitentes that "Sean took Chris and Bram and Andy off up to the rock walls opposite for some climbing and Ben and Chris took the rest up the ski field first afternoon and then up to the overlooking ridge the next day." She added that the whole team is bonding well and "being very obedient about drinking water in copious quantities." Good to know our guides are on the group to remain well hydrated!

More news as we have it!

stu

The first view of the Polish Glacier on the trek is an awe inspriing one from Casa de Piedras

The trail from Pampa Leñas to Casa de Piedras

Jan 13, 2009 - Expedition under way!!

from stu in the US US office

Our trip is offically under way with all of the members having arrived from all over the world and convened in Mendoza for a few days of wine, food and trip prep. On the 11th they headed up to Penitentes Ski resort for a few days of acclimatization and team building and have now made their way into the mountains proper and the first day of trekking to Las Leñas.

The mountain has already proven to be a very serious place this year with nasty weather having contributed to a number of fatalities on the hill. We will be taking a cautious approach to summit day due to what appears to be an unsettled weather pattern. Global climate change is certainly in full bloom on Aconcagua and the respect that people have for its infamous "white wind" or " viento blanco" will be held in the foremost thinking of our quides, staff and members in the weeks ahead.

Ben dropped a last minute note from Penitentes and we look forward to hearing more from them by sat phone in the days ahead!

from ben

All packed and about to leave for the trailhead of Valle de Vacas. Everyone is doing well. I led the Falso group on a couple of acclimitisation hikes up to over 3000m in the surrounding hills of the Las Lenas ski resort.

Sean and Chris took the Polish group on an awesome rock climb in the Penitentes spires opposite the resort. Everyone having a great time and can´t wait to get on the trail.

Best wishes to those stuck at home and work.

We´ll stay safe and bring back a heap of photos and memories to share with you beautiful people.

Ben

The relaxed and beautiful atmosphere of Penitentes Ski resort serves as our home for two nights each trip!